You may remember that I took Kenneth Kings Moulage class a couple of years ago. If you are not familiar with the term, it's a basic bodice and hip in one piece drafted without ease. Based on that we were able to draft slopers for a blouse and jacket. These are very basic with out any design ease or style lines and no sleeves and collars. I really didn't know what to do with my slopers though, so other than using the muslin of my moulage to pad out my dress form, the slopers have just been sitting in a drawer. But, guess what? I am taking a full day, 3 session class on collars and sleeves with Kenneth at Sew Right Sewing Machines in Bayside Queens the first 3 Saturdays in November. There are still places if you are interested, but hurry because they only have 8 places. He is also doing a fit clinic on November 11. Oh, a prerequisite is having taken his moulage class, or having a moulage and slopers that you've drafted with his method.
KK sells cd's for drafting a basic sleeve, advanced sleeve and collars. Considering that each cd costs $28 plus shipping, add the cost of printing and binding them and the 3 full day sessions with the master for $250 seems like a bargain.
I am behind on my leather jacket, and I may not finish the 4 pieces in time, but no matter. I had to make another muslin to get the sleeve fit right. I've had issues with every coat and jacket I've made over the last few years with the armhole and sleeve fit. Playing around with the fit on fabric is one thing, leather is another. It has to be right the first time. Using Sarah Veblen's fitting book has really helped. The HBL,, or horizontal balance line makes a world of difference. It really gives you a visual reference that can tell you where the problem is. I don't know about you, but reading the wrinkles has always been hit or miss for me. But a line that isn't parallel to the floor is easy to see and understand. It took me all of yesterday to cut and fit the muslin, but it's worth it. I not only have sleeves that fit but a better understanding of fitting, which I hope will help me fit a blouse for my dd. We are seeing her the first weekend in October at my son's house and I'll be bringing a muslin for Vogue 8815 , the popular peplum top. Coming with me is Veblen's book.
Back to cutting out my jacket. I've got almost 2 skins cut and 3 to go before I can start sewing.
HENLEY SHIRT #2...
9 hours ago