tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-82970645817282058422024-02-26T02:04:51.032-05:00Nancy K SewsFollow along as I sew what I wear, cook and garden.Nancy Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02235347323004026695noreply@blogger.comBlogger257125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8297064581728205842.post-54774130302077778872017-09-22T22:57:00.002-04:002017-09-22T22:59:23.723-04:00The Wedding<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Alex and Patrick MacMartin</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Alex and Patrick were married on August 27. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I did not take any photos at the wedding and I forgot to take a photo or two of the bride before we left the house. I have a few photos from guests and that's what I am sharing with you. It will be several weeks until they get the professional photos.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Burda called for the lining to be used as an underlining in the bodice plus a lining, but called for only two layers in the skirt. In the magazine photo, you could see the model's legs, not something that Alex wanted so I added another layer of the georgette for the skirt. We had a bright, sunny day and no show through. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The dress is from Burda Style 3/17 #105</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I bought 15 yards of silk double georgette I had about a yard left, purchased from Banksville Designer Fabrics.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">4 yards of silk charmeuse lining also from Banksville.</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> The bodice and the zipper area were interfaced with silk organza from my stash. Narrow strips of organza were used to stay the back neckline.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I used Mettler cotton embroidery thread. I mention the thread because it was fabulous to work with especially since I hand basted all of the georgette layers by hand and not once did I have knotted thread. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I had trouble sewing the long skirt seams and didn't think to use my walking foot which probably would have helped. But I don't love using the walking foot and never thought of it until afterwards. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The instructions were not very good, even for Burda. They actually think that you can turn the dress through the shoulder straps. No, not possible. Even with only two layers I don't think it's possible. I should have known better, but the last time I made a lined, sleeveless dress with narrow shoulder straps was when Alex was about 11, or 20 years ago. I really should have looked at better instructions before, but I didn't. I ended up cutting strips of bias lining and making a doubled bias facing. After sewing it to to the dress I pressed it to the inside and hand stitched it to the underlining. It worked. I made a baby hem on the outer layer and ended up just serging the inner layers. It wasn't what I intended to do, but as I had issues with the length due to an error I made early on and I was running out of time and no one would see them. I do not recommend not having any fittings in the real fabric, but that's what we had. She lost a little weight but it fit reasonably well. She loved it, which is really all that mattered!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Enough said. Alex is planning on having the dress cut off above the knee and dyeing it red. I gave her extra thread for hemming since polyester doesn't dye well. She and Patrick are going on their honeymoon in December (between semesters) and she's going to wear it then. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">They are lucky that that they planned a later honemoon because Patrick's National Guard unit got called up to go Houston Sunday night after the wedding. He went with the second convoy that drove down from Austin. and ended up in Port Arthur at a Sears that had been set up as a medical unit. He's a medic and he did lots of intake and gave tetanus shots.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Alex was the most laid back brides imaginable and everything worked out perfectly. Alex and Patrick were happy with everything and</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">a lovely time was had by all.</span><br />
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Nancy Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02235347323004026695noreply@blogger.com73tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8297064581728205842.post-89090916195738523192017-02-16T13:15:00.002-05:002017-02-16T13:45:31.136-05:00Things I've Learned<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">What kind of ponte is the best seems to be a common topic on the boards. Marcy Tilton says that rayon nylon lycra is the best recipe for high quality ponte. It's more money, but is it ever worth it. The problem and the allure is that interesting textures and prints in ponte are almost never this lovely mix. I bought a rayon nylon polyester lycra ponte from emmaonesock. It looked lovely, I made a pair of pants and wore them frequently because they held their shape. But the more I wore them the more they pilled. All over, not just at the usual wear points like the inseam. I had made a pair of ponte pants a few months before these with the magic mix. They still look better than the newer poly blend. The poly is only 30% of the mix; not like its only poly and lycra. It wasn't cheap either. It's a damn shame since this blend doesn't bag out at the ass or the knee, but it's just not wearable anymore. I've tried de pilling and it's useless at least with the tool I have. It's all over the place. They are not wearable except maybe to clean in. What a shame.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Moving on: I've made a bunch of things, I just haven't photographed them on me. Maybe I'll do a photo shoot on my dress form? We'll see how time goes this weekend.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The Dress: Anyone who follows Burda on Pattern Review knows that the Russians post the newest issue well before it's out on their website and lo and behold March is wedding dress month and there is a dress similar to the Burda we picked for Alex but with a much better skirt. I am going to use the top of the pattern we have I think, and this new pattern for the skirt.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">It has strange 'wings' on the back. There is no back view, but from the front they don't appeal at all. You can get a better view of the dress on the model I think but it's hard to see how the bodice is shaped. The first pattern has a princess seamed bodice with a bias, shirred overlay. I may make both up to see which we prefer. However, it does look like the waist is raised slightly, as the first pattern is. Alex has a tiny waist and we lowered the waist to reflect that. I am going to trace and make up a muslin as soon as the issue comes. I am unfortunately in a time crunch. While she will be here about 10 days, I will be on a Grand Jury starting February 27th. In case you are not familiar, that's a 4-6 week commitment. It's not like regular jury duty where you call in every day to see if they need you. I already used up my one postponement and when I picked the time I could show up I picked February thinking that it would start at the beginning of the month! At least I only have to go to Riverhead (30 minute drive). Years ago a friend was assigned to Federal Grand Jury in Brooklyn. Ah, well, such is life.</span></div>
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This is the original dress</div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The skirt is prettier, don't you think? Very much in keeping with what I've seen in RTW bridal wear. </span>Nancy Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02235347323004026695noreply@blogger.com21tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8297064581728205842.post-68839456072576728802016-11-28T16:48:00.001-05:002016-11-28T16:48:57.537-05:00The Dress<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We had a very busy week between Thanksgiving, family visiting, meeting our future daughter in law for the first time, and working on the muslin for Alex's dress. Amanda is delightful and we already adore her. She and Josh are perfect for each other. It was a great week and our Thanksgiving was wonderful. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Onto the dress!</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I traced the pattern and made a muslin. It was too small. To me my dd doesn't look any larger than she was when I took her measurements a couple of years ago. Don't assume anything. She has done a lot of climbing in the last couple of years and she has gained muscle mass and about 10 lbs. Wider shoulders too. I decided not to retrace the pattern, so boring and time consuming and altered the larger size and did a tissue fitting, at least of the bodice. I ended up using a size 10 at the shoulders and upper body and enlarging to a 12 for the waist and a 14 at her low hip. This is going by her upper bust, waist and hip measurements. The alterations I made were a 1" fba, a sway back of about an inch and a rounded upper back, and I lowered the princess seam. I kept a piece of narrow elastic tied at her waist to check the length and it made pinpointing her back issue easy. I then made a muslin of the bodice and skirt, fitting the bodice and skirt separately before attaching the skirt. I used the size 12 measurements to enlarge the skirt and didn't recut it. It was too big as was the bodice at the waist. Afterwards I realized that while I had lowered the skirt waist to where her waist is, because we wanted to emphasize it, I forgot that, duh, the waist gets larger if you lower it 5/8". Even if I had lowered it by folding out the 5/8" below the waist it would have been too big because it was meant to be above the waist, so larger to begin with. I ended up taking in the waist and the upper hip curve. She is straighter from waist to hip than Burda drafts the hip. I also have to move the shoulder seam back a bit. When she tried it on she found the neckline too high, and this has got to be the only time I've ever found a V neck on Burda to be too high! I pinned it under until she liked it. I also cut the back V deeper. The gored skirt is very flattering on her and she was happy. The biggest issue I have is that she was instructed to bring a good bra. What she considered her best bra was sorely lacking. She will be back at spring break with good underwear and shoes! Anyone know of a good lingerie store in Austin? She says that she is willing to travel to Dallas or Houston so any suggestion will be greatly appreciated!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The bodice is princess seamed with a gathered bias overlay and I am concerned that the princess seam won't have the correct placement because the bra wasn't good. Since the upper layer is going to be either chiffon or georgette I don't want to have to rip it</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">. I am thinking of hand basting the dress to make it easier to alter. I will also cut wide seam allowances.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I sent for fabric samples from Emmonesock, Alex picked up some samples from Mood, and I just called Banksville Designer fabrics for more samples. I made Alex's bat mitzvah party dress with fabric from them 17 years ago, long before internet fabric shopping. I wish that they had a commercial website, but if you know what you want they are a great resource for well priced, high quality fabrics.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">These were taken before I lowered the neckline front and back. She wants a 'hint' of cleavage. There's twirling going on in the last photo. Skirt perfect for it. There will be a gathered overlay on the waistband that I left off. Fitting this was a lot easier than I anticipated, these are pretty basic alterations that were easy to pinpoint. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I've got some winter sewing for myself before I tackle her dress. I need to get a roll of tissue paper too before I cut the dress. Does anyone have a good source?</span><br />
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Nancy Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02235347323004026695noreply@blogger.com21tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8297064581728205842.post-37385851916014730222016-11-21T17:10:00.001-05:002016-11-21T17:10:04.148-05:00A Wedding Dress!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Our daughter Alex is getting married! It's going to be here on Long Island next August. We live in a very pretty area and we've got a couple of places to look at for the ceremony that are close to the house where we are going to have the wedding lunch. Yes, I am going to make her wedding dress. She is here for the week and I am working on a muslin. I sent her to try on dresses, one for style, and two for color. Texas is not the place to find a simple dress. If you want lots of bling, lace and lots of breast exposure you will be in luck. This is not at all what Alex wants. I found this Burda dress pattern that we both like.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Dress B, but long like A. It's an odd waist placement, about 5/8" above the natural waist. She has a tiny waist so I lowered it. I almost never make Burda envelope, make that never actually. I do sew from the magazines and have for years. The addition of some illustrations do not make the instructions much better. It's very clearly shown in sheer fabrics, but there is no mention of lining the skirt and no amount to buy. The bodice has a ruched bias upper layer over a princess seamed bodice that has a lining. All in the dress fabric. As I mentioned, the skirt is not lined. That's one revealing dress without a skirt lining! Even if you make it in an opaque fabric a lining is really necessary to finish it. I have done very little fancy dress sewing in all of my years sewing, but I have some very nice sewing books for reference which this pattern really needs. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I have actually been doing some sewing, just not doing any photography. I do have some things to show you. Hopefully I'll get to it after Thanksgiving. We're going to have a house full of company. Our son is also coming with his fiance and our grandson! So, both of our children will be getting married next year. It's exciting. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">In case you are wondering, I am not making a dress for myself. This is a small wedding and the black and white silk I made for my cousin's wedding will do perfectly. Thank goodness!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Have a wonderful Thanksgiving to my United States readers. It's my favorite holiday. </span></div>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"></span>Nancy Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02235347323004026695noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8297064581728205842.post-34918386065561947562016-09-09T10:25:00.001-04:002016-09-09T13:07:22.071-04:00NYC Fabric and Bra Shopping<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">We were meeting cousins in the city for dinner and decided to drive in since it's often hard to get a convenient train in the evening. Seth had a business stop to make and then we, or rather I, hit the garment district. Seth sat in the car in a no standing spot just off 8th on 36th Street. I wouldn't leave my car in such a spot, but his sitting there didn't seem to bother the two traffic cops who walked by and didn't stop talking. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I bought some purse hardware at Botani since I have finally decided to make a leather bag. I took Don McCunn's class on Craftsy and it's time. I am going to salvage a leather skirt I don't wear and maybe wore 3 times. The pattern is Vogue OOP 7703 that I've had in my pattern stash for a very long time. It's copyrighted 2003. I guess not everyone wanted or needed cell phone pockets 13 years ago. There is one very small open pocket inside, it's use I have no clue. The bag I'm making does have two outside pockets but I'll add a zipper pocket on the inside as well as 2 open pockets for my cell phone and a small notebook I carry. Maybe a couple for pens and pencils or a large open pocket for my wallet? I bought some black and ivory stylized animal print cotton at Mood for the lining. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Fabric and hardware</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Here's the pattern I using for the handbag. Handbag A</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I visited Elliot Berman too, and bought an Italian double sided wool knit in an orange red on the outside for a cardigan inspired by this one from Eileen Fisher. It's boiled wool, but my fabric will work. Mine will also not have dropped shoulders which do not work for me. I'm using <a href="https://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m6844">McCalls M6844</a>. I'll add pockets. If you are in the city they have some gorgeous wool knits and what looked like a couple of Missoni knits. They also had a gorgeous wide stripe in red, white and gray from Prada. Or call and ask for some samples. There are so many more things in the store than they post on the website. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I was looking for silk velvet for less than $40 in red and Meg McDonald recommended Prime Fabrics on W 35th Street. They had very nice silk velvet for $22 a yard, but not in the red I wanted. Nor in any colors that work for me unfortunately. Not a must have so I didn't look further.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">As to the bra shopping part of the day, Seth parked our car two blocks south of the Basta Pasta on West 17th off Fifth. Good and reasonable for a nice restaurant in NYC. We were early and as he was walking up Fifth he passed a lingerie shop, Rigby and Pellier at 104 Fifth Avenue, that had a nice display in the window. We went in; (they have very comfy spouse chairs an important attraction for Seth). Lo and behold, gorgeous bras, in my size even, which turns out to be a band size smaller than I've been wearing and a cup size larger. So a 36F instead of a 38DD. A very good fitting by the well trained sales woman. I look thinner, and I haven't had this much lift since I don't remember when. It's also comfortable and stays in place. Not cheap, but worth it for being pretty, fitting perfectly and being comfortable. It's also been awhile since I had a really pretty bra. So hard to find in my cup size. The cost of them would behoove me to learn how to make bras, but I resist. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Here's a link<a href="https://www.rigbyandpeller.com/new/2AF_AAABgW4AAAFCt7huWpjp"> Rigby & Peller</a></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I just finished a pair of pants and next up is a last summer knit top. Then on to the handbag. That and a few UFO's that will fit nicely in my fall/winter wardrobe.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">As an addendum, I just saw Peter's post on<a href="http://malepatternboldness.blogspot.com/"> Male Pattern Boldness</a> that Paron, another small fabric store is closing. This is so sad. I have been buying fabric from them since they were on 57th street, long before the internet. They were a few doors down Greenberg and Hammer so it was almost one stop shopping for fabric and sewing notions. When I couldn't get into the city I'd call and Lucy would send me samples. I will miss them. </span>Nancy Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02235347323004026695noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8297064581728205842.post-90158422016768527862016-08-26T14:24:00.000-04:002016-08-26T14:24:20.776-04:00Bet This Wasn't The Dress You Were Expecting<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Bet this isn't the dress you expected to see, is it?</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">After sewing 2 muslins of Hot Patterns 1201 Montpelier dress I decided that it was not going to work for me. I thought that I could make a very loose fitting dress into the semi fitted vision I had in my head and that I had drawn on my croquis. I was running out of time and </span><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">I still needed a dress for the Orthodox wedding we attended this past Tuesday, which is why I just didn't wear the black and white dress I wore to my cousin's wedding. It was a Boro Park wedding and very traditional. Ok, if you are knowledgeable about Jewish custom, you're saying, scoop neck? bare upper arm? Well, by this point I really needed a dress and it wasn't all that immodest. No comments or looks were made, but the other dress, really not suitable. This is from oop V2882 by Tom and Linda Platt that I'd made a few years ago. It was published in 2005. Wow, I must have made this a lot of years ago! I made this top but not this skirt. This pattern, unusual in designer patterns these days, has two different tops, two different skirts and a pair of pants. I had made the knee length skirt before and it doesn't fit me. While the top did fit, I decided to make both pieces in the same fabric. I made the long skirt which I love and I envision wearing it with boots and more casual fall and winter tops. The fabric is fairly heavy so I got lucky it got cool that day and that the catering hall was freezing! </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><u>Fabric:</u> 6 yards of Rag and Bone acetate polyester lycra stretch crepe from Mood. I already had 3 yards of this and since Mood still had stock, I ordered 3 more yards. I wanted a pair of pants out of it too, which is what I had originally bought it for. I managed to cut out the top, skirt and pants. The fabric true to crepe, drapes beautifully. The only issue I have with it is the description on the Mood website. I often find that their overly flowery, wordy descriptions don't really give me the information I need to understand if the fabric meets my needs, and this was true here as well. It was described as 4 way stretch, or stretch in length and width. If I hadn't checked to make sure that it had the required stretch for this pattern I would never have realized that there was minimal stretch in the cross grain, and the required stretch was in the length. I ended up cutting it in a single lay on the cross grain. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><u>Changes made</u>: The top pattern was already cut out in size 14. I use a 16 these days, which was in the pattern, but I stupidly didn't re draft it back to a size 16! I had tried on the previously made top, which was made up in matte jersey. Thinner, and maybe a bit more stretch. Anyway, I ended up lowering the underarm and using up about 3/8" of my extra seam allowances in the body and sleeve. Fortunately, I always use a 1" seam allowance to side seams. The top calls for side seam slits at the hem, but I didn't find that they were flattering so I left them out. The top also calls for a cb invisible zipper but I had enough room to leave it out. I made a few minor fitting fixes, especially narrowing it at the front chest. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Because I am larger than a size 16 on the bottom I added about 6" to the hip and waist. This pattern has 9 gores with 2 in the front. I love skirts that have different size and shapes to the gores and this one works beautifully for me. I don't find A line skirts flattering, but this fit and flare skirt works for me. The other big issue I had was getting the hem to be even without ruining the flare. I know, I should have made a muslin but I didn't. I could have actually marked the waist when I tissue fit this, but again, I didn't. I have a very uneven waist, with the front waist needing to come down a good 4 inches. My left hip is lower and shaped differently than my right side; the back was fine just where it was. I stood on the stair landing(great stand in for a fitting platform) with a 1" wide elastic that I use for fitting with a velcro fastening, while my dh sat a step lower and he measured from the floor up as I pulled the waist up above the elastic. When the hem was level he marked the bottom of my elastic. It worked really well. I did however, need to really take the waist in and re shape the upper hip. Lots of fit as you sew went on. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">When I enlarge bottoms of multi size patterns I usually add only at the seams that change size. I decided that it was too much to add at each side seam so I added about a 1/4" at all of the other seams except the cb. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">There is an invisible zipper at the cb. The pattern called for a narrow waistband that met at center back with a hook and eye fastening at the waistband. I hate having a hook and eye that doesn't have any backing against the skin; it's uncomfortable. Instead I made a version of my pants waistband with a petersham facing and overlap with a heavier pants hook and eye. It's flatter and much more comfortable.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>Nancy Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02235347323004026695noreply@blogger.com17tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8297064581728205842.post-54157930542600222592016-07-11T15:30:00.003-04:002016-07-11T15:31:55.441-04:00Finally Figured Out How to Make an FBA In a Dior Dart!<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I knew I had seen how to alter a Dior dart somewhere, but I combed my fitting books, and I have a lot of them! Could not find it anywhere. Finally this post from from Cenetta of The Mahogany Stylist on how to make an fba with the new or newish, Y dart made me remember that I hadn't looked in Palmer/Pletsch's Full Busted DVD, which is where I found it. I've also been playing around with moving darts and dividing my very large dart into multiple darts. It's fun and kind of empowering not to be tied to that very large dart my DD bust needs.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">In case you don't know what a Dior dart is, it's a short dart from a side panel. Burda often uses them and Hot Patterns used it for their new Montpelier dress which I am making.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">As you can see, this dress has a side panel which extends as the under sleeve for this dolman sleeve, if that's what you call this cut on sleeve? But, regardless It has a side panel with a dart in the front panel. The side panel is far from the bust apex. A princess seam would run over the apex or close to the apex of the bust. Here is an example of how Dior used it in the 2015 Spring collection. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I love this example with the top stitching. I turned my single Dior dart into two to make them smaller. Jennifer Lawrence had a dress on that had three small darts from a side panel that was very attractive too. It really molded the bust beautifully.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">This is from The Cutting Class site. <a href="http://thecuttingclass.com/post/117112011493/bust-shaping-panel-lines-dior">http://thecuttingclass.com/post/117112011493/bust-shaping-panel-lines-dior</a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">My alteration of the Montpelier dress looks like this, showing how I've divided the dart into two, but I am going to make two front versions one with one dart and one with two as it is here to see which I like better. I also shortened the dress since this is a very awkward length on me, to just below the knee.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Here's the Y dart I made. Because I have a low bust I made a smaller Y section, about 1/2" with the remainder, about 1" in the side dart, because it widens the upper chest where I am not wide. The sleeve gets cut off in this type of sleeve so that you can make the second part of the fba like you would in a regular armscye. Then it gets re attached and any opening filled in with paper. This is smaller than the usual fba I make. But, when I tissue fit it this is the width I needed. It remains to be seen if this sews up well in a muslin. </span></div>
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Nancy Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02235347323004026695noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8297064581728205842.post-44667354397983172652016-07-03T12:23:00.002-04:002016-07-03T12:31:21.079-04:00Why Do I Only Seem to Finish Winter Coats at the End of the Season?<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Seriously, I never seem to finish a coat at the beginning of the season. I dither about the pattern, I make at least two muslins after numerous fitting alterations. I play with the details. It's a time consuming process. This coat is my all time favorite of coats that I've made. The fabric is a gorgeous mohair, wool and silk blend that I've in the collection more than a few years. It was bought at one of Michael's online 50%off sale . If I remember correctly it's Zegna. It's fabulous. The mohair and silk make it light and airy while the wool gives it stability. The lining is a silk charmeuse from one of Fabric Mart's famous sales. My inspiration was a Saint Laurent coat selling for over $2500. I had a Burda pattern that I'd made a muslin from. for a round necked coat. . I liked it because it had a shoulder princess line in front and a plain back. I wanted a slightly oversize coat that would fit comfortably over a heavy sweater or two, and it does. I've taken all of Suzy Furrer's classes, which are fabulous by the way, and used her neckline and collar class to change the plain front to a notched collar. I change necklines, especially in knits, all the time but this was my first notched collar and I am very pleased with it. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I love simple coats with something different that makes them stand out and here it's the oversize pockets. I made several paper samples and I still ended up making them twice. The coat also has bound buttonholes, my go to for coats. I hadn't made them in awhile, so that meant lots of samples with some different methods. Judy Burlap's bound buttonhole instructions, available on her website, are some of the easiest, best I've used. I made three buttonholes that match and all of the lips are even. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">When I plan a coat I debate endlessly with myself about how much tailoring structure I really want in the coat. For this one I wanted a light soft look and feel because the fabric is airy and light. Allison Smith's class on Craftsy gave me the opportunity to try hybrid tailoring. It's light but gave me just enough body for this coat. I think that I am addicted to Craftsy classes!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> All in all I am very pleased with the coat, especially the fit. I finally got the armscye and sleeve fit perfected. I have a low right shoulder that has a bit different rotation than the left one due to an old injury, so while the left one will hang perfectly, the right one is a different story. I learned that I need to rotate it more than the left one. I also learned that my narrow shoulders need a higher sleeve cap. to hang perfectly. This I got from another Craftsy class, Lynda Maynard's fitting class. I've had the shoulder problem for 34 years but age has changed it as it has the rest of my body. Learning to fit my aging body has sometimes been a challenge.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7lYyXSC7Vrw2dr2U919dUYmdozMDpEmOQFJVAuH3u-DPfUr_nm6dBgRyvvvujmFSIXmiJG0AVporpcbJw-gYt5WdTQ46vMcKTLdQOdyOxw9PN_QtxR6AOIAM4JbPoAOmQ3z5UYfdvzn8/s1600/IMG_2116.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7lYyXSC7Vrw2dr2U919dUYmdozMDpEmOQFJVAuH3u-DPfUr_nm6dBgRyvvvujmFSIXmiJG0AVporpcbJw-gYt5WdTQ46vMcKTLdQOdyOxw9PN_QtxR6AOIAM4JbPoAOmQ3z5UYfdvzn8/s640/IMG_2116.JPG" width="360" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw9UMfcHE4ggGqUFQhb5jlL6zWioY3Upvl3m5D6TOV4Hx2W-5tPkQVjlWrbeLxBV7yXpOlWhj2_xK5GQhyphenhyphenoN6lxRMtxGEXJbgBj4XDJBQ6d0p41WMfQz-YPRaxeUgo_PBLLD02M-k14ng/s1600/IMG_2119.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><span style="text-align: start;"> Do you ever find that you have more ease in the front or back of a sleeve cap? This</span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> was one of my problems. I could feel the back of the cap against my shoulder. The sleeve cap ease needed to be balanced. I walked the front and back of my sleeve against the front and back of the coat armscye. When I got to the shoulder point I marked it on my sleeve cap. The ease needs to be the same on either side of the shoulder point on the sleeve cap. I adjusted it by removing from the front and added to the back of the cap. It really works. I found this information in Sarah Veblen's Photographic Guide to Fitting. I keep finding more and more useful information in that book. Because of my shoulder issue I still had to adjust the right sleeve cap a bit more than the left. It worked and as you can see in the photos there is no excess at the back or front of my cap. It's fits into the armscye perfectly. The back of the coat looks a little big, but this is exactly how the original looked and it makes it easy to wear over heavy sweaters. Here I'm just wearing it over a t shirt. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The other thing I do to accommodate my uneven shoulders is to add to my right shoulder pad. I add padding and keep trying it on until both shoulders look even. Then I use some tailor tacks to keep the layers together. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I usually start with existing shoulder pads, especially if I want to use extended pads which are not easy to make yourself. Apple Annie fabrics has some very nice shoulder pads that are a combination of set in and raglan. Years ago Threads had a series of articles on Armani tailoring and this is the type of shoulder pad he uses. Because my low point is really that my arm is lower, this really makes it easier to even up my shoulders. I add the padding to the end of the pad but not into the extension. As you can see, it works well. It also fills out the sleeve cap. I didn't use a sleeve head.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The photos we took that showed the lining weren't great, so when I get a chance I'll take some new ones and post them. </span></div>
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Nancy Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02235347323004026695noreply@blogger.com18tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8297064581728205842.post-20045503643939210212016-06-16T20:09:00.002-04:002016-06-16T20:09:24.159-04:00Color <span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Color, as you can see I haven't quite succeeded in adding a lot of color to my wardrobe. I do wear red lipstick, which I've done for years. The current color is Beso by Stila. I love this stuff. Red lipstick is usually high maintenance but this one doesn't come off all over the place. Well, some of it does come off when you eat. Oily foods are the worst. But it doesn't come off in the usual course of the day and it stays on all day. I have added other accents of red to my wardrobe; a red everyday handbag, red glasses, red sandals. These are big steps for me. I've got a red pashmina too, as well as a black and red silk scarf I bought in India years ago. I've been using them more. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Seamwork, the monthly magazine from Colette patterns posted an article on how to find your colors. I downloaded the recommended Sherwin and Williams app. I took selfies of myself and ran the program. Problem is, I didn't like most of the colors. I don't wear pastels. Can you really imagine me in pastels? I can't. There were lots of grays and some black as well as a number of different reds, yellows and golds. These are colors I can relate to. I already have plenty of grays and blacks in my wardrobe. Big step for me, I ordered a red and white stylized floral for another Gypsy top. I've got a nice gold rayon knit in the collection (thanks Caroline; a much better word than stash!) that will work with my gray, black and white neutrals. I also ordered a coral, gray and ivory knit from emmaonesock to go with gray or white pants. I have three pairs of gray pants and I'm making a pair of white linen pants. I've got some red linen that would look pretty as a summer woven tee with white and gray and my multitude of black pants. Baby steps for the color. Oddly I did make some pieces a few years ago with more color but they are gone from my wardrobe due to stains or relegated to exercise clothing due to wear. </span><br />
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Nancy Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02235347323004026695noreply@blogger.com16tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8297064581728205842.post-17930231377973993392016-06-01T11:00:00.000-04:002016-06-01T11:00:04.420-04:00Big Style<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">As you can see above in Bill Cunninham's Sunday NY Times offering, off the shoulder tops are very much in vogue right now. and there are lots of ways to wear it. I finished a blouse version of Hot Patterns Urban Gypsy Friday and wore it out to dinner with friends. This top is in a lovely black and white stretch cotton from emmaonesock and probably as old as the fabric I used for my dress! Every season I make a list of sewing projects and a blouse is usually on it and until now hasn't made it to the sewing machine. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">This version uses the alternate sleeve that comes with the pattern. It's quicker to do well, no baby hem. It's still not the original version with it's shirt tail hem. One more would be nice, using the tie sleeves, and the original hemline. After all, I bought a strapless bra for my dress and I wouldn't mind getting a little use out of it! </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I really enjoyed working in a nice woven cotton instead of my usual knit tops. Knits can be finicky, and this was not in the least. the only issue I've have with this top is that I made the elastic too short to stay further down on my arms. I think I may open it up and put longer elastic in. it's a fine line between too long and not long enough! I would ere on the longer side if you make it. I didn't really notice it until I sat in the car. Because of the seating angle I think, the shoulders rose. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">One of the reasons I bought this pattern was how current it is. But, I am not a big fan of over sized shirts or anything else for that matter. This shirt has too much ease as drafted in my opinion. I carefully measured the hips and even at a size smaller there was 8". I of course then added an fba and made it worse. It's also totally straight at the side seams. When I altered it to make the dress, in addition to narrowing it I shaped it at the side seams, in at the waist and pegged the hem a good inch on each side. I do have to shimmy into the dress a bit to get it over my hips, but it's fine once it's on. I have to keep saying that if you are making a muslin add Horizontal balance lines. I could see that the one for my bust was pulling down at the sides, so I added another small dart to level it out. I rotated it into my existing two darts and then equalized the two darts. I almost didn't see it, but after spending a long time looking into the mirror I realized what the problem was. Finally learning to see after all these years!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I have a number of shirting fabrics in my stash for that planned shirt that never materialized. I saw a gorgeous white cotton and linen shirt from The Row in Elle magazine that I would love to replicate. (of course I have several whites to choose from) It has a large notched lapel and collar. The Row's shirt wraps, but I'd probably add some buttons and a bit more shaping. Now to find a pattern, or maybe I'll finally draft it myself. I've taken all of Suzy Furrer's drafting classes and several in person from Kenneth King. I have Kenneth King's cd books, but I found Furrer's classes easier to understand. I drafted a notched collar and lapel for a coat I made in late winter. I tried to draft it using KK's book and couldn't get what I was looking for, but I did using Furrer's class and it came out exactly what I wanted. I'll write a future post on the coat. I love it and it's probably the best coat I've ever made. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>Nancy Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02235347323004026695noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8297064581728205842.post-81107307065643357542016-05-23T20:36:00.000-04:002016-05-23T20:44:03.803-04:00I'm Back<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I never intended to take such a long break from blogging but time creeps up on you. I thought about not continuing but in the end I've missed you all.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">We had a wedding to attend on Sunday and I needed a dress. I have such a difficult time finding dress patterns for my aging body that are stylish but not too exposed. That make me feel chic and not dowdy. My arms have seen better days but my shoulders are still fine. When I saw Hot Patterns Metropolitan Urban Gypsy Blouse I bought it immediately not thinking about making it into a dress for this wedding but thinking that it was a chic top I would wear all summer. Looking for an idea for a dress I looked at my favorite fashion sites and kept coming back to dress versions of this top. I drew a couple of different dresses on my croquis and sent them to my daughter. She immediately picked the off the shoulder one. I am so glad I took her advice. Two muslins were necessary to work out changing this to a dress and some fitting details, but it was really easy to get this to fit me. It's a good pattern. There was too much ease even though I made it a size smaller. I rotated the fba I made into the neckline so that I have 4 darts now in front instead of two. Not having gathers was a big plus for me in this pattern. Darts much more flattering to my large bust than gathers above it. In all I think I took out about 4 "in the waist and hips. Instead of being straight the side seams now curve in at the waist and I pegged the bottom. There was still plenty of room for the back gathers to fall gracefully.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Everything for this dress was from my stash. The print is a silk crepe de chine that was wonderful to work with. It stayed put on my cutting table, the print was on grain and it's just great quality and a nice weight. I bought it on clearance sale from a pattern designer who was phasing out fabric and I can't think of who it was. I had 4 yards and used most of it including two samples to practice the narrow hem that I haven't done in years. Of course I could have just used scraps but I wanted to see how hemming the opposing curves would work. The original does not call for lining but it does have instructions for putting in a shelf bra, which I used to a point. My lining isn't stretch, it's </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">one of the nicest Bemberg rayons I've ever worked with. It's heavier than what I see now. It was also on sale from a website that closed. Can't remember their name either; both pieces have been in my stash for a good long time! I attached it at the neckband and I finished the armscye openings tacking them at the underarm seam and French tacks at the lower seams.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> I used French seams for the top of the sleeve which I didn't line. Even though I lined it I finished the side seams with my serger because of raveling.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">We had to drive almost two hours to get to this wedding and I was sure I would be a mass of wrinkles by the time we got there, but there weren't any and after a whole day and more than two hours to get home there still weren't very many wrinkles. If you ever think that you don't want to bother lining something, remember my wrinkle-less dress and think again. I do think that the weight of the lining helped. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I love this dress! Was it Donna Karan who said that the last thing to go are a woman's shoulders? </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Trudy of Hot Patterns designed a fantastic pattern that's exactly what's being sold all over the place in RTW. I am in the process of making it in blouse form, also in black and white, but cotton. It's a top, or in my case a dress that I think can be worn by almost any woman. For once I'm thrilled with what I wore to a wedding. I'm also happy with my sewing. I make so many really simple knit tops and simple pants that I felt like I was losing my sewing skills. This, while not a particularly difficult dress, was more challenging than my usual fare.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>Nancy Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02235347323004026695noreply@blogger.com25tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8297064581728205842.post-85531039852341695622015-04-04T13:49:00.000-04:002015-04-04T13:49:04.196-04:00Do You Wear What You Buy? <span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I have a friend who will buy 3 of almost anything that's on sale. Doesn't matter if it fits her well, or if the quality could be better, but it was on sale! She once tried on a dress that she'd just bought on sale, and of course non returnable, that really didn't fit her well. She wanted to know if I could fix it. Aside from the fact that I don't sew for people, there was no way I could fix this too tight dress. There was virtually no seam allowance to use, so no way to let it out. I can only assume that it languished in her closet unworn; I never saw it </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">again. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> I read this great blog post today </span><a href="http://myyearwithoutclothesshopping.com/shopping-clothes-emotions/common-items-women-buy-but-just-dont-wear/" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">http://myyearwithoutclothesshopping.com/shopping-clothes-emotions/common-items-women-buy-but-just-dont-wear/</a><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> It made me laugh. While I no longer buy much in the way of clothing, I buy patterns I'll never make up, they were on sale, or fabric that really isn't something I'd buy if it weren't on sale! I am much better about that last one these days but while what I buy on sale may suit me, do I really need more basic black or gray in my stash? Carolyn from Diary of a Sewing Fanatic wrote a great post today on the spring fashion trends that she was attracted to. Floral being one of them. While I may love it on other people, and I love the floral dress she just made, I can't really see it on me. White on white I'd wear but it would have to be in a fabric that can be bleached since I am a stain magnate. I have to toss my favorite white tee since I can't get a stain out. The one that attracted me the most was the bright mixed colors. It looks fun and I think that I'd wear this trend but only in work out clothing and not in 3 colors. Two is about all I can imagine myself wearing. Bright blue and orange or red, or red and pink as long as the pink is bright enough. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This all goes along with my desire for a small, manageable wardrobe with things I wear again and again, but isn't boring. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">My grandmother used to say that clothing you buy just for an event never gets worn again. You bought it because you had to, not because it really suits you. She had great taste and a wonderful wardrobe. I wish that I had that fabulous Bonnie Cashin coat I remember from my childhood.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Do you buy things on sale just because they are on sale? Do they languish in your closet with the tags still on them? What's in your closet that you never wear or have never worn?</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">How much in your fabric stash will never get sewn? </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>Nancy Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02235347323004026695noreply@blogger.com16tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8297064581728205842.post-51150928831439902092015-03-28T10:55:00.002-04:002015-03-28T10:55:42.286-04:00Color In My Wardrobe<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Over the last few years color in my wardrobe has slowly been if not eliminated, then become very limited. I buy little fabric on impulse anymore, which is a good thing! What I sew is less impulsive as well. Everything I sew has to be purposeful and fit within my wardrobe. Not just for economy, but because I really don't like a large wardrobe. I made another Girogio top in December in black merino wool. I wear that more than anything else. I could wear it every day but that's getting kind of obsessive! What I really need to do is find another pattern that I like as much. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I've been reading the<a href="http://www.theviviennefiles.com/"> Vivienne Files </a>introduced to me by Myrna at <a href="http://blog.myrnagiesbrecht.com/">myrnagiesbrecht.com/</a>.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">especially the starting from scratch wardrobe building. It's not specifically the clothes she picked, which on their own are a bit on the boring side. Then again I sew things that are kind of boring, at least lately. What I like is how she mixes 2 main neutrals with accent colors and how she balances the wardrobe. She uses the accent colors and accessories to give the wardrobe some pizzazz and style. A wardrobe is after all things that will last and work together so that you can easily get dressed in the morning! I like to think of this in a landscape analogy; you can't build a landscape out of accent or eye catching plants. It all has to work together in layers with underlying structure. The plants together form a beautiful whole and make a garden.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> Most of us aren't building a wardrobe from scratch myself included, but I've just weeded out my closet and what's left is a good starting point. My main neutrals are black and gray. I need three accent colors to add to it and that is where I waffle. Vivienne used red, white and cobalt blue for her accents. I never think to wear red, but I bought new glasses in red and a new bright red lipstick. It's the perfect red, neither blue nor orange. So obviously I like how red accents look on me. I have three pieces of fabric with a nice medium blue in it. But I also love acid green and I have two pieces of fabric in that color. Nothing in red. Which, obviously can easily be solved! I don't like scarves unless it's cool out, and I don't like them hiding necklaces I like to wear. I just remembered that I have red linen pants. </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> Perhaps I need a list of what is already in my closet! </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I've been doing a lot of wardrobe planning lately with lots of pinning, lists and sketches on my croquis. It's fun, but I need to get to the sewing part.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">How do you treat color in your wardrobe? Are you very strict or do you find yourself buying on impulse and then having nothing that works together?</span><br />
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<br />Nancy Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02235347323004026695noreply@blogger.com15tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8297064581728205842.post-65686583285462760272015-03-21T14:11:00.001-04:002015-03-21T14:11:20.147-04:00Do You Pinterest?<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">When Pinterest first came out I really didn't get the point of it. Then I started working on a joint project with a much more tech savvy woman, and she suggested we post images to share on Pinterest. The project didn't work out but I was addicted. I love the high end fashion sites and while I've snipped and saved to my computer, it's easier to just pin it to a board or more than one board if I want. It's also easier to see the all of the images together. I get to see what other people find and think interesting too. It's better than fashion magazines which have their own point of view that isn't usually mine. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Generally I post clothing that I think will work for my body, sometimes I just like the look and want to remember details. It's helps me stay focused on the look I want for my wardrobe without those impulse buys that are still in my stash years later. I can search out the minimalist clothing that appeals to me. Here are some things that I've pinned recently. I love this outfit from The Row, the bottom picture is Michael Kors. I like the jacket better than the pants, but I find the matching denim takes me back a bit.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I really like these cotton lycra pintstripe pants which are on my sewing list since I found almost identical fabric on sale at Marcy Tilton. They are shown with a top that I will also make but don't know if I'll wear them together. It's hard to see, but there's a welt pocket on the upper chest. Nice detail on a very simple top. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I think the one above is from Eileen Fisher. You'll notice the black and white theme going on here. I am still looking for a dress silhouette that I like. It's fun.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Contrary to what's appeared here on my blog I have been doing some sewing. I made a quite a few pieces for a trip in December and didn't bother to photograph them since all of the pieces are tnt and have appeared here many times. My favorite piece is another Silhouette Giorgio top in a wonderful black merino wool, this one long sleeved. How many times can I make this top? Several pairs of pants and a couple of sweater knits, all tnt patterns.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I did make my dd a fabulous skirt in a printed faux leather with a knit top for her birthday today. I actually managed to get it to her on time. Pictures to come when she has a 'photo shoot'. It even fits her perfectly. Burda fits her with almost no changes a 36 at the waist grading out to a 38 at the lower hip and taking in the waist a little. That and she needs it shortened by about 3". I wouldn't make pants without a good basic sloper which I may make for her when she comes in May. She wears dresses to work though most of the year because it's too hot in Austin in the summer for pants, so a good sheath dress sloper would be good. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Remember the raincoat? I am about to return to that. It's all cut out and I've made samples for topstitching. I also changed the coat I'm knocking off. It's still Celine, but I didn't have anything comparable to the belt so I chose a different coat. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I had blue cotton just the color of the buttoned band and pockets. I made some changes to the coat for practicalities sake, since mine is a raincoat. I'll add some snaps to the front and not leave the seams open.. I think that I'll lower the pockets to make them easier to use. There's another pocket out of site to the back side of the coat. I'll move that one or leave it off I think. I originally intended not to line this, since my fabric is bonded with a stripe on the other side. But it didn't really go with the blue accents so I cut a lining. I have to think about the strange sleeve band placement. What do you think? </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I'll post progress pictures as I go. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>Nancy Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02235347323004026695noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8297064581728205842.post-67979195435636907472015-03-13T11:29:00.002-04:002015-03-13T11:29:08.630-04:00Think Pink<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Or the Pantone color of the year, marsala. Does it remind anyone else of the Emperor's New Clothes? If you don't have this color in your life, you're losing out. You don't have the latest new thing. It's just another marketing ploy to get people to buy not only new clothes, but everything that's available in the new color as you can see in this link to Pantone.<a href="https://www.pantone.com/pages/index.aspx?pg=21163">https://www.pantone.com/pages/index.aspx?pg=21163</a></span><br />
<span style="color: #656565; font-family: helvmd, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; line-height: 16px;">According to Pantone it's:</span><br />
<span style="color: #656565; font-family: helvmd, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; line-height: 16px;"><b>"A naturally robust and earthy wine red, Marsala enriches our minds, bodies and souls."</b></span><br />
<span style="color: #656565; font-family: helvmd, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; line-height: 16px;">Really?<b> Pantone says we should surround ourselves with this color to make our lives wonderful and complete. </b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">If that one doesn't do it for you there are the other colors of the season. How many bloggers have taken these and run with them, using them to tell their readers how to use them to dress, and where they can buy pieces available in these colors? </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Ok rant done. How many of you like these colors and will wear them this season? I'll wear the gray, but I was going to do that anyway!</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Have a great weekend.</span>Nancy Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02235347323004026695noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8297064581728205842.post-68244766954753034412014-10-17T23:28:00.000-04:002014-10-17T23:28:10.122-04:00Yes, Something Is Finally Going On In The Sewing Room<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It's really been awhile, hasn't it? I'm not good at coming up with posts about sewing when I don't have anything to show you. I cleaned my sewing room and did some organizing which has helped me get in the mood to sew. I am tired of making versions of my tnt pants and tee shirt and there in lies the problem. I have to make so many fitting changes to patterns that sometimes I just don't have the energy for it. I spend a lot of time looking for the perfect pattern or at least a pattern that I can change to get the look I am after. I spend a lot of time making lists of what I want to sew and never sewing all of it. A raincoat has been on my list for years. Really, years. Renee from <a href="http://missceliespants.com/">Miss Celie's Pants</a> posted on her blog that she had just bought real Burberry fabric from Michael's in Baltimore. I quickly called them up and bought 5 yards of black bonded raincoat fabric. It's been sitting in my stash for a long time. Maybe 5 years? Renee made her coat years ago. I have matching lining, red cashmere and wool blend for a button out lining. buttons, buckles, in other words everything I need to make a damn raincoat. I actually have two sets of buckles for this coat and now I don't know if I will actually use buckles!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> Anyway, I finally made a decision on a pattern and it was not one of the at least half dozen patterns I bought to make this coat. All this time I've been sure that I wanted to make a trench coat. A single breasted, not the more typical double breasted variety. I even found some patterns, but none felt right. I've been looking at coats on Style.com and Net a Porter looking for something that did feel right and I found it. Actually I found two coats and one pattern that I could use as the base for both coats. I even have fabric for not one, but two winter coats. Lining too. Got to love that stash. The last coat I made was a bit of a disappointment which is one of the reasons I have hesitated. Good coat patterns are hard to come by. The new Vogue Ralph Rucci pattern is fabulous, but not for my body. What I found were several coats from the Celine's Spring 2015 show. Phoebe Philo is one of my favorite designers. She has a modern minimalism that I love. It doesn't always work for me, but these shapes would be flattering. I don't intend to make it exactly like the original, but this is my inspiration. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I also like these Calvin Klein coats enormously and they would work for a wonderful coating that's also been sitting in my stash, also from Michael's.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">To get to these coats I found Burda 103 3/14. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The Russian Burda site has some wonderful versions of this coat including one a la Burberry if I decide to go in a more classic version.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I am still at the pattern alteration stage, but at least I am working on something new.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Have a great weekend.</span>Nancy Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02235347323004026695noreply@blogger.com15tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8297064581728205842.post-40509122813426338042014-08-17T16:51:00.000-04:002014-08-17T16:51:03.054-04:00Finally, a Pants Fix<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">On the whole I've been pretty pleased with my tnt pants, but they have always been better in fabrics that have drape. But, make them tight and woops, where did that camel toe come from? Unfortunately I don't have a before picture. These are linen, cotton and lycra from DKNY bought from emmaonesock a few years ago. There is quite a bit of stretch, so I sewed them tight knowing that they would loosen up almost immediately on wearing. But, the front crotch was really off. Not that the tight stretch had caused the problem but it certainly made it glaringly obvious. These photos are taken right after washing and pressing. They are tight, which you can see from the horizontal wrinkles which aren't from sitting since I hadn't sat down before these photos were taken. Buy there are no wrinkles pointing to my crotch. The others disappear as they stretch. They just become linen wrinkles.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Both Claire Kennedy and <a href="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/anatomy_of_a_camel_toe_pt2/">Kathleen Fasanella</a> have had posts on pants fit, specifically front crotch issues. Fasanella's was the one that did it for me. The front crotch curve needed to be deeper. I ended up having to remove the zipper to fix it, but it worked! No more camel toe even when sewn very tight. No crosswise wrinkles or other oddities even when tight. Of course in about 15 minutes wearing them they were no longer tight, but the crotch fit was perfect for the first time. I am curious to see how it plays in a stiffer fabric. Deepening the crotch curve does makes the front crotch longer. If you measure the crotch before you do any surgery on it and compare it to the after length you will find the amount you have to lower the front waist when you apply the waistband. The waist will also be longer but mine wasn't longer by much. I made the front darts a little deeper to compensate. I also took in the front inseam blending down about 7" which also shortens the front crotch. It was the shape that was too shallow for me and I don't like a full front. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The top is another rendition of Silhouette Pattern's Giorgio top which I love, This is the perfect fabric for it without too much stretch and great drape. Its a rayon lycra jersey that I bought at Elliot Berman's 50 off sale.awhile back. I probably could take it in a little bit in the middle, but I'll leave it alone. I plan on making this again with long sleeves in a wool blend jersey I have in my stash. Probably I'll make it more than once. It fits, it's more interesting than a regular tee and it fits.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>Nancy Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02235347323004026695noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8297064581728205842.post-3978398653230825902014-08-05T14:03:00.001-04:002014-08-07T11:22:21.983-04:00Gray, The Big Trend for Fall<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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WSJ September issue via Keep It Chic</div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">According to Keep it Chic gray felt and knits are the way to go this fall. Considering that I have three pieces of gray wool flannel and worsted, a gorgeous gray and black double sided cashmere knit, a couple of beautiful gray rayon knits and two gray bottom weight cottons in my stash I am off to a good start. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I've been wearing a lot of gray since I let my hair go natural. I like how it sets off my silver hair. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I also have a gray and black herringbone coating in my stash that I am planning on sewing up this fall. My color palette has narrowed over the last few years, but I like gray, black and white and it certainly makes it easy to get dressed. Occasionally I buy fabric in a different color and it sits there in my stash never sewn. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">On a different note, take a good look at the welt breast pocket in the top photo. I would assume that this is a very expensive coat where you'd expect all the details to be perfectly sewn. The left side of this pocket is sewn properly; on the right side the welts overlap. A definite no no.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I do have a new outfit to photograph and post. Hopefully I'll get it up this weekend.</span>Nancy Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02235347323004026695noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8297064581728205842.post-53033336946482071732014-07-03T15:39:00.002-04:002014-07-03T15:49:57.827-04:00More Wedding Weekend Pieces<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Before I talk about the top, lets talk about how big these pants are. I had them on maybe for 1/2 hour before these photos were taken. That's how long these linen and lycra pants took to stretch out. I have another pair of linen and lycra pants that are not quite as bad, but they stretch out quickly too. Like a lot of sewists I like lycra in my pants since it make them more comfortable. These pants are made from my tnt pants pattern and when I put them on they look perfect, hang beautifully and feel good. I am thinking that it's time to give up lycra, at least in combination with linen. I have cotton twill or sateen with lycra and that works fine. It's also not an issue with a pair of wool lycra crepe pants I made. The top is my interpretation of Hot Patterns drape back t shirt. the front, sleeves and yoke are made from a dark gray print over a lighter gray rayon jersey from emmaonesock. No lycra in the print. The back is a light weight rayon lycra from the 50% sale at Elliot Berman a while back. It was a much lighter weight than I expected it and couldn't use it for a skirt, but it's perfect for this top.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This top is silk jersey with point d'esprit stretch mesh for the sleeves and neck binding.that I made last year. The pants are my tnt pant in a really nice weight cotton lycra from the Sewing Workshop from the designer Derek Lam. I wore this for the rehearsal dinner in the herb garden. Gorgeous setting!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The pergola we ate under. It's covered in wisteria that must be gorgeous when it's in bloom.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><u>Sunday Brunch</u></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Yet another version of my tnt t shirt pattern and pants. The top fabric is from emmaonesock. It's an almost tissue weight rayon jersey. I always cut my t shirts with a 1" side seam so that I can adjust the fit to the amount of stretch in the fabric. This is thin and has little stretch, so I sewed it using up most of the ease. But it caused me issues with the neckband. It stretched out so much that I ended up taking in a dart from the neck edge almost to the shoulder at the shoulder seam. Maybe 5/8" meaning I took out 1 1/4" at the neck edge. It worked fortunately because taking off the neckband was just not an option on this very fine knit. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The pants are in a wonderful, hard to find rayon crepe from Marcy Tilton. I've got enough left over for a vest that I didn't have time to make for my trip. Another Helmut Lang garment is the inspiration. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Yesterday was my 64th birthday and I made good use of my wedding wardrobe our dinner out.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The same tnt pants pattern after an evenings wear. Much better than the gray linen pants, but still stretched out a bit, I think that I will stop buying fabric with lycra to use for pants. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">That's the end of wedding related posts friends. It was fun, and I really enjoyed wearing what I sewed and got lots of complements.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">My son, daughter and grandson are coming for visit for a week, getting here on Wednesday. We have been looking forward to this for awhile. The beach, the ride on train at South Haven park and the Aquarium in Riverhead; we've got lots of plans for the week. Not a lot of sewing will be going on.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Have a great 4th of July everyone.</span></div>
Nancy Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02235347323004026695noreply@blogger.com16tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8297064581728205842.post-77594125745706315822014-06-27T14:25:00.001-04:002014-06-27T14:25:59.515-04:00Jen and Jay's Wedding in Ojai, California<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We are back from my nephew's wedding at the Ojai Valley Inn and Spa in Ojai, California. Wow. We had an amazing time; what a great place to have a wedding. Ojai and the surrounding area is lovely, with great trails to walk and bike and hiking up into the mountains. The spot at top is Sesar Canyon. Our instructions were to drive up past the houses until we couldn't drive any further.Early in the morning it was cool and lovely.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> We visited an artisan small olive oil producer in the center of olive and orange groves and bought delicious local olive oil and flavored, aged balsamic vinegar from Italy.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The town is lovely with good restaurants, galleries and shops. Even if you don't have a wedding to go to, this is a great place to vacation.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">But, this is a sewing blog and I'm sure you are more interested in what I wore to the wedding. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">In an earlier post on what the hell was I going to wear to this wedding I decided to copy these two pieces from Helmut Lang.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM4GPlVvAuQ9AxWpWQRXY7Le5VAeVPhZWGOTEhO0SAI5zWDKgdp6LwcNiIQjZMYt6Fe4HmneGuR-qNl5eHhw8Xco-WaUKeA932RXoe6Xa6boYLpwGTWIzDn93GQv7n44MuPnze4q5q0LA/s1600/Helmut+Lang+drape+back+t+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM4GPlVvAuQ9AxWpWQRXY7Le5VAeVPhZWGOTEhO0SAI5zWDKgdp6LwcNiIQjZMYt6Fe4HmneGuR-qNl5eHhw8Xco-WaUKeA932RXoe6Xa6boYLpwGTWIzDn93GQv7n44MuPnze4q5q0LA/s1600/Helmut+Lang+drape+back+t+2.JPG" height="320" width="207" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">To make the pieces dressier I chose to make them in black 11 ounce rayon lycra jersey from <a href="http://emmaonesock.com/">emmaonesock</a> and lengthened the skirt. Both pieces are self drafted, of which I am very proud. My tnt tee shirt was the base for top draft. I don't think that this is how the original was drafted, but I like how it came out. I had found a couple of methods for drafting a cowl neck but nothing that would give me an exact replica of the top. I did have some issues with the shoulder position. It made me realize that the shoulder seam position on my original pattern is too far forward. It's not an issue when the front and back seams are the same angle, but it did matter here. I had to adjust the shoulder angle on the back piece after some trial and error and had to cut another front.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The skirt started out as a Burda pencil skirt. The top layer is slightly gathered at the left hip. the shape, as you can see of the front pieces are not identical. It wasn't hard to draft, but it needed to be worked out in the muslin I made. It's not exactly the same as the original; I'll call it 'inspired' by. The waistband is attached, but narrower then on the original. It's also elastic. There's really not much to say about these pretty simple pieces. They were easy to sew and great for packing.</span><br />
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Nancy Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02235347323004026695noreply@blogger.com19tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8297064581728205842.post-45427760552328488302014-06-11T13:34:00.003-04:002014-06-11T13:39:20.115-04:00Do You Have a Go To Garment That You Love to Sew?<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">In the middle of my marathon vacation/wedding sew I had issues with the top to my wedding outfit. The first front got a bit of fusible interfacing on it front and center. I got it off but it left a stain. Off to Emmaonesock to order more jersey. Fortunately I ordered two yards. Why you ask? Because I ruined the second front and finally cut a third one that worked. I had issues with the draft of the back cowl being to pointy at the shoulder point and it created a problem when I sewed it up. Trying to fix it I f... it up. I redrafted the shoulder and re cut and sewed it up. I am in the middle of hemming it now. Thank goodness. The outfit looks good but whether it will be dressy enough, who knows. The dress code is "Dress for a festive summer evening". I am not the only one who asked WTF does that mean? </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">What did I sew while I waited for the fabric? Pants. That's my go to garment when I am frustrated or need to renew my sewing mojo. They are simple, plain pants. I don't tuck my tops in so I prefer a plain top with the least amount of bulk. I really do need to work out a pocket that is sturdy and low key and flat so that I can have a place to put my phone. The only thing that I change on them is the width and length. I just sewed up 2 pairs that fit because they are from my tnt pattern. I did fit as I sew because one piece of fabric has lycra and one doesn't. Fabric does really make a difference in fit. The non stretch is a rayon crepe that drapes almost as well as wool crepe. Light and perfect for summer. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The stretch pair are these python print cotton. Definitely a different kind of fit from crepe. The fabric is Derek Lam from The Sewing Workshop. You know I'm a sucker for an animal print! This one is a lovely quality. I don't see myself having time for a photo shoot before we go, so you'll have to settle for these shots for the time being. I've finished 3 tops, a skirt and two pairs of pants. I have the green silk top that goes with these pants and maybe another top and pair of pants to sew. Depends on time.</span><br />
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Nancy Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02235347323004026695noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8297064581728205842.post-83771757877696692842014-06-05T15:13:00.001-04:002014-06-05T19:51:24.429-04:00A New Iron<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Right in the middle of my marathon vacation/wedding sew my Consew gravity feed iron conked out. Of course the first thing I did was have Seth take a look at it. If Seth can't fix something it just can't be fixed. Unfortunately he couldn't fix it. It needs a new switch which isn't readily available. He did take it out to see if he could find one, but in the meantime I needed a new iron. My previous iron is a Rowenta which I still have and Seth uses. It's a bit underwhelming after having a gravity feed iron. I remembered that I'd gotten an email from Wawak with $20 off on a Hot Steam SGB-600 gravity feed iron which brought it down to $89. Even their regular price is good. Seth did a search for it online and came up with a price of $150. Of course I called and ordered it. It was delivered Tuesday morning. After unpacking and setting it up I turned it on.<br />Wow. This is better than my Consew ever was. It heats up faster and the temperature gauge seems more accurate. The amount of steam is just phenomenal. All in all this is a terrific iron and I am enjoying using it. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">If you aren't familiar with a gravity feed iron, there is a water bottle, which you can see above, that has to hang 36" above the iron. I have it hanging from the beam above the end of my pressing table. This one holds nearly a gallon which lasts a long time even using it all day. You have to use it with resin beads that absorb the impurities in water. If you wanted to use it with distilled water I would guess that might work as well. The iron comes with a packet of resin, a non stick iron shoe, the hose, and all of the hardware needed to hang it plus a cleaning kit. The resin is blue and when it turns mostly brown it's time to change them. It lasts quite awhile. By the way, I happened to order two packets of it a couple of days before my iron conked out, so I'm set for awhile.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I've only been using it for a couple of days but it was love at first press. If you are in need of a good iron it's on sale this month for the same $89 I paid for it for the month of June. I added a silicon pressing sheet to the order which brought it up to $100 and got me free shipping. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">My sewing is going well. I've completed the skirt, two tops and a pair of pants. I am working on the cowl back top. I've got a pair of black rayon crepe pants and a gray cotton linen lycra pair cut out and ready to sew. I want to make one more top I think if I have time.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I wasted most of yesterday trying to alter a sleeveless jacket pattern or vest that I decided I needed. I gave up. I cannot figure out how to alter a side panel with dart to fit properly. I've looked online and nobody has shown how to make an fba in this style. If anyone has any advice on this, please let me know. I made a usual fba adding to the short dart then I rotated the extra into a shoulder dart since a short fat dart just doesn't sew well. The problem is gaping at the armhole. I'll come back to it since I really like the style. I am copying another Helmut Lang piece using this Burda pattern. It's minimalist with a contemporary twist that's right up my alley. Some of their clothing is too exposed for me, but a lot of it is definitely wearable by an older woman looking for casual clothing with a contemporary vibe. Of course it doesn't come in my size. So isn't it great that I can sew it up myself?</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This is the pattern I'm using to knock off this Helmut Lang vest or sleeveless jacket.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The larger sizes of this vest have a short dart at the seam. Any ideas on altering it readers?</span>Nancy Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02235347323004026695noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8297064581728205842.post-28374684372344129402014-05-25T11:48:00.002-04:002014-05-25T11:48:32.287-04:00The Colette Guide to Sewing Knits, a review<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This was one of my Mother's Day gifts from my children. One sewing book and one gardening book. I had added it to my Amazon wish list because the free chapter looked good. The book is unfortunately, disappointing on so many levels. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The photos are of poor quality and way to small to illustrate the techniques being demonstrated. There are too many photos of tools that could be better shown in one larger, clearer photo. I have no clue why she chooses to use such a shallow depth of field. It's rather irritating to have a picture of a slip with one breast in focus and the other out of focus due to that shallow depth of field she seems so fond of. It's useful when you want to isolate a portrait in the landscape to focus on the figure, but one breast in and one out of focus? None of the photos are particularly crisp which makes them less than useful. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The other issue I have with the photos is that light colored garments are shown against nearly identical background colors making what is being shown nearly indiscernible. There are some photos of patterns that are so faint as to be useless.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Then there are the garments being used to demonstrate technique. It's nearly impossible to understand from the photos what is being shown. That, and the garments aren't anywhere near being quality samples. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The chapter on adjusting your pattern for fit leaves a lot to be desired. As a full busted woman I know that adding just to the side seam at the bust is not enough. I need to add length to go over my bust so that the front doesn't hike up. Not so here. The rest of this chapter is just as lacking. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The writing is fortunately far better than the photos used and there is some useful information here. But, for me the negatives far outweigh the pluses and I can't recommend purchasing this book.It is a self published book and it would have really gained a lot if it had some professional help. If you can find the Tauntion series that's out of print with it's books on The Easy Guide to Sewing Tops and T shirts, this one is by Marcy Tilton, and Sewing Knits by Connie Long, you'll get a lot more and clearer information than is available in this book. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Have a lovely Memorial Day</span>Nancy Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02235347323004026695noreply@blogger.com17tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8297064581728205842.post-49275579091544327112014-04-27T17:15:00.000-04:002014-04-27T17:15:08.641-04:00Choices Made<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">After considering my choices I decided on the Helmut Lang separates with a small change. I didn't like the skirt draft and decided to use another of his skirts, the one below but longer. I made up a muslin and played with it a bit by cutting into the angle of the skirt until it looked good to me. It looks good on me, but you'll have to wait until the final since I took apart the skirt to transfer the angles to my skirt draft.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Starting with my tnt knit top pattern and an article in January 2014 issue in Threads by Londa Rohlfing to draft the cowl back. The first one wasn't low enough, so I went back to the original pattern and redrafted it for a lower cowl. Both muslins are worth finishing since they make very nice tops that will be cool for summer with the open back.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The pattern on the left is the first one I drafted. The one on the right is what I'll use for my wedding outfit. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I'm not sure that you can see it, but the one on the right has a lower, wider neckline to form the deeper cowl.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I chose Emmaonesock's 11 ounce rayon lycra jersey for the fabric. After pre washing I'll be ready to cut out and sew. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>Nancy Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02235347323004026695noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8297064581728205842.post-91469504979628417492014-04-15T10:41:00.001-04:002014-04-15T10:41:23.282-04:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I opened my email this morning from Keep it Chic and saw this very chic woman wearing a rain bonnet. I haven't seen one of these since I was a teen maybe? I know my mother wore these and I wouldn't be caught dead in one of these. Except when I am caught in the rain without an umbrella or I don't really want to carry one anyway. When you don't have a free hand a rain hat certainly would be welcome. I've thought of making one for myself but I never have. I don't mind being out in a mist, after all here in the suburbs I only have to go from the house to the car or car to store and my hair is curly so mist usually doesn't do all that much damage. But in a downpour who wants to look like a bedraggled rat? Do any of you wear rain bonnets these days? What do you wear in the rain?</span>Nancy Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02235347323004026695noreply@blogger.com18