Tuesday, October 20, 2009

SEWING ACTUALLY GOING ON!


I do seem to have screwed up the matching across the zipper. It's not so obvious in person fortunately. I do love the fit of this jacket and I am going to not see the matching issue since I can't do anything about it. I sewed up the sleeve muslin today and scooped out the front armscyes where it was uncomfortable.
I block fused my yardage with Pro-Sheer Elegance low temp interfacing from Sew Exciting which you can see in the zipper pictures. I only added some Pro-weft fusible to the collar stand. I wanted the jacket to have a little more body but not to be tailored. The low temperature of the Pro-sheer is perfect for my fabric because while the wool will take a higher heat, the lurex won't.
I solved my shoulder fit and am really happy about that. I have lots of fit issues as I've said before, but my forward shoulder is accompanied by a rounded shoulder too. Instead of sewing the back shoulder dart I eased and shrank it to fit the front shoulder. This eliminated the wrinkle I was getting running from the shoulder to above the hip.
I am really pleased with the zippered pockets. I used the faced or what Claire Schaeffer calls the Magic Window method. Marking the pocket on the outside you use an upper pocket of silk organza so that you can see the pocket mouth.
After sewing a box in small stitches it's cut open and the opening trimmed to 1/8". Each side is understitched, long sides first and then the ends.



Paper covered fusible tape is perfect for holding the zipper in place while stitching it to the upper pocket. The zipper is attached to the front by folding back the garment and stitching over the previous stitching for the window opening.

Next up is cutting out the sleeves and lining.

15 comments:

  1. That jacket is going to be AMAZING! I can't wait to see it finished!

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  2. Wow, that jacket is going to be just gorgeous! A real show-stopper!

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  3. It looks great already! I love the zippers

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  4. Those zippers are awesome. Why is it we always see and mention a 'mistake' first. It's very good and very promising. Looking forward to the finished version.

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  5. A few days ago I was wondering the exact same thing that Sigrid commented on. I think we mention our mistakes in case someone else notices them, we don't want them to think we don't know we've made a mistake.

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  6. Love the style of this jacket. The zipper pockets look great.

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  7. Love the zips! That's a terrific design detail.

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  8. Great jacket! Take your time, but I can't wait to see it finished.

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  9. I love what I see so far. The fabric is just amazing.

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  10. I love the combination of the plaid fabric and the brass zippers that you chose for this jacket. I can't wait to see the finished jacket. It is going to look fantastic!

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  11. Wow, snazzola! This is looking great, Nancy. I've abandoned the idea of a motorcycle jacket, at least for now.

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  12. Nancy, this is fabulous!Love all those zips.

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  13. wah!!! I wanna be working on my biker jacket too! The zippers are gorgeous.

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