Sunday, August 17, 2014

Finally, a Pants Fix

On the whole I've been pretty pleased with my tnt pants, but they have always been better in fabrics that have drape.  But, make them tight and woops, where did that camel toe come from?  Unfortunately I don't have a before picture.  These are linen, cotton and lycra from DKNY bought from emmaonesock a few years ago. There  is quite a bit of stretch, so I sewed them tight knowing that they would loosen up almost immediately on wearing.  But, the front crotch was really off.  Not that the tight stretch had caused the problem but it certainly made it glaringly obvious. These photos are taken right after washing and pressing. They are tight, which you can see from the horizontal wrinkles which aren't from sitting since I hadn't sat down before these photos were taken. Buy there are no wrinkles pointing to my crotch. The others disappear as they stretch. They just become linen wrinkles.

Both Claire Kennedy and  Kathleen Fasanella have had posts on pants fit, specifically front crotch issues.  Fasanella's was the one that did it for me.  The front crotch curve needed to be deeper. I ended up having to remove the zipper to fix it, but it worked! No more camel toe even when sewn very tight. No crosswise wrinkles or other oddities even when tight. Of course in about 15 minutes wearing them they were no longer tight, but the crotch fit was perfect for the first time.   I am curious to see how it plays in a stiffer fabric.  Deepening the crotch curve  does makes the front crotch longer. If you measure the crotch before you do any surgery on it and compare it to the after length you will find the amount you have to lower the front waist when you apply the waistband. The waist will also be longer but mine wasn't longer by much. I made the front darts a little deeper to compensate.  I also took in the front inseam blending down about 7"  which also shortens the front crotch. It was the shape that was too shallow for me and I don't like a full front. 

The top is another rendition of Silhouette Pattern's Giorgio top which I love, This is the perfect fabric for it without too much stretch and great drape. Its a rayon lycra jersey that I bought  at Elliot Berman's 50 off sale.awhile back.  I probably could take it in a little bit in the middle, but I'll leave it alone.  I plan on making this again with long sleeves in a wool blend jersey I have in my stash.  Probably I'll make it more than once. It fits, it's more interesting than a regular tee and it fits.

Tuesday, August 5, 2014

Gray, The Big Trend for Fall

 WSJ September issue via Keep It Chic

According to Keep it Chic gray felt and knits are the way to go this fall.  Considering that I have three pieces of gray wool flannel and worsted, a gorgeous gray and black double sided cashmere knit, a couple of beautiful gray rayon knits and two gray bottom weight cottons  in my stash I am off to a good start.  
I've been wearing a lot of gray since I let my hair go natural.  I like how it sets off my silver hair. 
I also have a gray and black herringbone coating in my stash that I am planning on sewing up this fall.  My color palette has narrowed over the last few years, but I like gray, black and white and it certainly makes it easy to get dressed.  Occasionally I buy fabric in a different color and it sits there in my stash never sewn.  

On a different note, take a good look at the welt breast pocket in the top photo.  I would assume that this is a very expensive coat where you'd expect all the details to be perfectly sewn. The left side of this pocket is sewn properly;  on the right side the welts overlap.  A definite no no.

I do have a new outfit to photograph and post.  Hopefully I'll get it up this weekend.