Follow along as I sew what I wear, cook and garden.
Thursday, August 12, 2010
Pants Are My Nemesis, or How I Waste Time
Either I've gotten really picky about fit, or my aging body has gotten that much harder to fit. Maybe both. See the pants on the floor? Those were the black pants I made to try out David Page Coffin's techniques. I will say that the issues I always have in sewing a contour waistband were solved by using a 1/4" sas at the top and bottom of the waistband. He suggests, and he calls them, outlets, I call it in case sas, that you only cut a wider sas on seams that you will be fine tuning the fit. I threw these in the trash and concluded that my drafting skills were just not up to the task of making the fairly wide legged Razer pant into a narrow legged pant. I can make a pant from it at 22 or 24" wide hem that fits very nicely in the rear. But the front still eludes me.
A pair of pants in a drapey fabric works better with some of the problems kind of softened out and not as noticeable. I get a pleat that forms from the cf crotch that isn't as obvious in softer fabrics. Obviously pants should not have pleats at the crotch! I have adjusted for full inner thighs. I've adjusted the cf to be parallel to the grain line to accommodate my full stomach. I've deepened the crotch and made it shallower. I reduced the inseam, I've added to it. The fit is better with a deeper crotch and shorter crotch point. I have found that there is a fine line on the crotch depth. If it is too long I get more of a pleat, if it is too short I also get the pleat. But, regardless of what I do I get the pleat. In a less drapey fabric it's really a crisp pleat that seems to point to my crotch.
I'm not sure if you can see the pleat in these pants. As I said, in a softer fabric with good drape, it's not as obvious but it's still there. If anyone has any suggestions for this issue I'd love to hear it.
I have been sewing since I was a teenager, mostly self taught. I sew for myself, with some some occasional sewing for my daughter. I love garment sewing and will only sew home dec if desperate. I love to cook and read and try to avoid cleaning as much as possible.