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Another Fit Clinic with the Master
Recently I took another fit clinic with Kenneth King at Sew Right Sewing Machines in Bayside, Queens. This is not a class on fitting, but a place to take your muslin and have Kenneth adjust your fit. He transfers the changes to the pattern for you, explaining what he's doing all liberally sprinkled with entertaining stories and useful tidbits. He's just fun. There were 3 women who had also attended the last clinic. You do learn just by watching what he does but it is not a place where we fit under his guidance.
What did I have fit? Jeans. Yeah I still want to make my own. I decided to go back and retrace the original Hot Patterns Dressy Jeans. They were so over fitted by the time I threw in the towel that starting over seemed a good choice. I made up two muslins and took the second one with me. I was OK with the back but the front crotch was giving me fits again. He took a look at my back first and was kind of puzzled as to what I wanted. His comment was that jeans will buckle at the knee like this. Then I turned around and showed him the buckling and extra fabric there (this is not that easy to see in this photo, but trust me, there is too much fabric at the front crotch). He turned back around, reached under my crotch and took a tuck. The excess fabric in front had disappeared. that's it. I also had him place my back pockets. I sewed up another muslin with the change and hopefully then I'll be able to make my own jeans. Sewing up jeans is fun and easy, it's just the fitting that's been a bitch. I think that a lot of the issues I had where really of my own making. Jeans just can't be perfect in back, especially on a woman with an ass as flat as mine! But, I think I can get a flattering pair, well I hope so.
This is the muslin I took to KK.
This is the second pair after his alteration. It's a lighter, stretchier fabric and it really needs to be a little looser I think. I will not be wearing tucked in tops, so the narrow leg should be ok. I know that if I try to get out the wrinkles in back I will end up over fitting again and not be able to sit down without having the center waist sit too low to be comfortable or pretty. The only other thing that I can do is make the pant a little wider in back, from above the knee down and see if they fall a little better. Looking at them in photos, maybe I really need to make a slightly wider leg to begin with. Hmm. Maybe I'm not there just yet. Note to self, perfection is often an illusive object in fitting pants, especially jeans. Don't overdo it!
Now would someone tell me why some jeans sell for over $200? That doesn't even include the big fashion names whose jeans sell for over four or five hundred dollars. Is the fabric that much better? Is it the name? Is the fit that much better? I don't know.
More fitting next time.
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I love that you brought up "over fitting". I think we are guilty of this in pants more than we are willing to admit. Thanks for bringing the subject up.
ReplyDeleteI do think part of the jeans fitting mystique is that we have been marketed the look of jeans on beautiful young bodies and that sure isn't my reality. They need to be fitted differently for the less than perfect figure. I am always amazed how the young woman with the perfect body gets so many positive fitting compliments for her jeans on PR. It's not right. We have to recognize that good fit is about OUR bodies, not fitting to a fantasy shape. So glad you brought this up and I know these will be fabulous in the real denim. Kudos also for staying on task. You are an inspiration.
I agree!
DeleteI too think that we are often over fitting in pants. Reallly, don't overdo it, it looks quite good, and certainly ,uch, much better than rtw will Imguess.
ReplyDeleteSorry, typing on an Ipad gave strange typos (and I need new lenses ;))
ReplyDeleteSandra Betzina in a fitting class I took said that in her opinion home sewers tend to grossly overfit. Because it's hard to see the one or two things that are not standard about your body, and recognize that most if it is just fine, it's easy to get into an ugly cycle of endless tweaks. So you did good to go back to the beginning..
ReplyDeleteI have often found that I over fit pants more than anything else and end up worse off than I was before my endless tweeks.
DeleteInteresting post, Nancy. You are lucky to have Kenneth in your sphere of the world! I miss having him here in SF. It's very interesting that home sewers tend to overfit, esp pants. Yours are looking very promising!
ReplyDeleteAmazing what a difference one tuck can make! The jeans are looking great.
ReplyDeleteWish I had access to Kenneth King in my neck of the woods.
ReplyDeleteI really enjoy your posts on fit, and appreciate the thoughtful comments as well. I suppose fitting is more of an art than a science.
ReplyDeleteI have a simple pair of pants cut out that I have made a ton of adjustments to. I am keen to sew them up and see what happens, but with all the Olympics hullabaloo here in London I can't get a chance. I'm basically running a B&B here with a distracted sports nut husband, and two small kids on summer vacation- whew!
Regarding expensive jeans, I understand that "selvedge denim" from Japan is very pricy and for true connoisseurs. These are old US looms bought by Japanese factories. They make old fashioned 1950s denim in very narrow widths. I wonder if that is part of the price.
I'll say you just won the "GOLD" in Hurdles, Nancy!
ReplyDeleteLike Shams, I'm thinking you are fortunate to have access to Kenneth in your back yard, as it were.
As far as paying $200 for jeans, well, if I count my muslins, books,... ah, but the success of a good fit: PRICELESS!
Brenda
Looking good Nancy!
ReplyDeleteI think jeans cost $200 because there are women that will pay that much for them? Just my opinion!
ReplyDeleteJeans are on my "to-do" list in fact I was even thinking of having a go during my two week vacation (this and next week). I did sign up for the KK class on Craftsy, so I guess I just have to jump in and try some.
ReplyDeleteYour's are looking good.
The outcome you have achieved is great. Really nice. I haven't attempted jeans - they are way down on my experience scale but I will certainly think of this when I do. I too have a flat butt.
ReplyDeleteVery Nice progress:) My expensive jeans last twice as long, which leads me to believe that the denim is higher quality along with the finishing. The details are unusual and things I cannot duplicate at home...like a very long stitch length with a very heavy decorative top stitch. rivets and buttons in colors I cannot get( which means most likely custom made for the company at extra expense) Overdying and distressing which I cannot replicate at home. I do like to make my own jeans but every 10 years or so I buy 2 pair of expensive jeans and wear them to death. Which reminds me that I am just about ready for some new ones:)
ReplyDeleteI love doing fittings with people, it's a great learning process! My friend makes his own line of jeans and orders in great denim also so he ends up charging a fair bit but they're beautiful jeans and unique too, I guess it just depends on what a person is looking for?
ReplyDeleteI think both muslins would make flattering jeans. The second one looks better because of the length.
ReplyDeleteI am certainly not one to "over fit"! Too much tweaking takes the fun out of sewing for me. I am well aware of my where my body differs from the standard. If I can move comfortably, I'm happy.
Smart woman!
DeleteBunny hit the nail on the head about the fitting issue. I think we expect our garments to fit like those we see on models. But-not only are they rail-thin, but the clothes they model are pinched, tucked and pinned on them to perfection. Lucky you, getting fit by Kenneth. Make yourself an awesome pair of jeans. That is something I need to do, also.
ReplyDeleteGreat sewing so far! I can totally relate to you. I spent about 4 months by myself last year trying to get my Colette Clover pants to fit, but it was worth it.
ReplyDeleteSo many truths here! Coloured denim is everywhere here. From $39 to $200+ pricemarks. I looked at the expensive ones and really they did not look any different from the cheap ones. Maybe the fabric might last longer but the trend will die before I wear them out!
ReplyDeleteBunny is right about the fit evaluations...nice body = nice fit in many minds. And Nancy, you and Kenneth are right about the over-fitting. You are making great jeans progress and I look forward to seeing the end result!
ReplyDeleteI only wear "expensive brand jeans" but I get them on super sale at places like TJMaxx and outlet stores. The denim seems to be of a higher quality. I find that $20 jeans just don't hold the shape as well. However, having been to Mood with Mom I know that the difference in quality is not that much of a difference in price. 7 jeans started making having a 'brand name jean' be as important as a brand name hand bag in the fashion set. Utterly silly if you just want a good pair of pants.
ReplyDelete