Saturday, September 26, 2009

October Burda has Arrived!

I read the end of books before I get to them, so it shouldn't be a big surprise that I can't keep from looking at the Burda previews online before I get the magazine. It really spoils the enjoyment of getting a new issue, but I can't seem to keep from doing it. I had already incorporated a blouse from the new issue into my yet again revised wardrobe plan for the Pattern Review contest. It came today, and aside from the rather lame, again, crafts, it's a pretty good issue. You know how designers often use strange accessories on the runway for showmanship? Well most of us wouldn't wear them even if we could afford them so why choose to make them into a craft project? How young do you have to be to wear pompoms? I know my 23 year old dd wouldn't wear them.

As you can see I have made a couple of changes. Again. I went back to my tnt pant pattern which I refitted anyway. I am a little anal about fit. I am making two versions of it, neither of them having the side front pockets. (I do not need any more width in the hips!) I narrowed the legs, added a contour waist and front welt pockets for the black denim trouser. I'll sew it as a faced pant for the gray silk and wool in the wider width.
Most directions for narrowing pants just have you draw them narrower. This doesn't always work well, leaving excess fabric below the front and rear crotch. Threads had a terrific article on a better way to adjust pants width years ago and they have reprinted it on their website.
I am going to sew one of the 3 Graces t's and the white blouse is next to it above.
I know that I am really behind, but I decided to do all my pattern alterations before I started cutting out and sewing. I do a lot of pattern alterations. It must be wonderful to not have to make adjustments. Sigh. I have the two blouses to trace and fit and that's it for patterns.
I also decided that there was no way that a straight waistband, which the McCall's jeans have, will fit me, so I used a contour waistband from an earlier Palmer Pletsch jeans pattern.
It is now 4 pm and I have spent the entire day working on pants patterns. I am exhausted.
How extensive are your pattern alterations? Do you make a lot of changes for fit or style or both?


  1. Love the wardrobe plan though I might put the font in a color other than black because it's a tiny bit hard to read.

    Also, I agree about the pompoms. The only people I know that would wear them are my 6-8 year old students. Older than that and they are only acceptable for cell phone charms and cheerleaders. Seriously. ~shudders at the thought of wearing them~

  2. Ya know, I have gone from scratch to complete fitted pant and just been miserable from the whole process. Then I did the Simplicity "Amazing Fit" pants and really think I have found nirvana. They took much less "fitting" by me and I really like the results.

  3. Yes, I, being of a certain age, short and more rounded than before, now have to make lots of alterations....and find it easiest to just do the standard ones for me (sloping shoulders, narrow shoulders, rounded back, fba, sway back/protruding backside, shortening sleeves, etc...yes there are others) before I even do the mulsin. In fact I spent today doing a dress muslin in the am and pants pattern tracing and alterations in the finished garments in sight. I feel your angst too and realize it's just a process and the end fit is worth it.
    Love your plan though and the colors on....ML

  4. Nancy ~ I'm always suspect of people who don't do any alterations...I mean unless you are a young woman with an amazing have to make some alteration to the pattern to make it custom fit your body. Otherwise you should just buy RTW...y'know what I mean!

  5. Your plan is beautiful.
    I fit. And I fit, fit, fit!!! I'm very grateful I didn't start sewing at the age I am now :))

  6. Very cool wardrobe plan mumzy! I do however, agree with the midget about the font color... very hard to see the black. I would try a light (or bright) blue, yellow, or green.

  7. My BWOF arrived Saturday too, I agree there are some nice patterns in it (you know what I think of the crafts).
    Your plan is awesome. I did see an outfit in this colorscheme in a magazine the other day, and immediately thought of your plan. The colors are catching your eye, without being too much.

  8. I'm sort of a "it depends" person when it comes to altering for fit and style. I am making muslins more to take care of fit issues, but I tend not to have to make big alterations in this area. My style changes are more tweaks rather than redos. Like I might change a full-length sleeve to a 3/4 sleeve, that sort of thing.

  9. I do a lot of alterations for tops, very similar to what emelle listed, except I need to lengthen sleeves. Funny thing is, I don't need to do many alterations for pants. Just length, cinch in the waist and let out the thigh area.

    I don't often change the style much, but might add different pockets, or remove them altogether, change up the neckline, etc.

  10. I do standard petite adjustments on almost every pattern, but other than that depends on the fabric. I have a slight amount of scoliosis so if I'm using a strongly patterned fabric or a reflective one like satin I have to correct for that because the pull to my left shoulder is pretty obvious.

  11. Oooooo - I'm so perturbed!!!! Every one gets theirs before me...and now here I sit with a ton of work and have to wait to tear my open and savor it! Looks great.