After reading several reviews of David Paige Coffin's latest multi media book on Making Pants for Men and Women I decided it was worth adding to my library. I hated his cd book on pants; I like to have a book to hold and read in bed if I want to. The first book just didn't have enough information either. This one is well done with lots of information with both a book and a dvd. There are lots of photos of rtw and custom made pants as well as plenty of technical and construction details and some nice video clips to illuminate the technique. It's a great use of multi media capabilities. My hesitation on buying this book wasn't it's lack of information on linings,as Sigrid mentioned, but his bias for menswear and I only sew pants for women, namely myself. He does cover faced, raised waists, which I will try out.
What I like the best about this book though is his point of view and his attitude towards sewing. He is unabashedly an amateur, as are most of us, and his willingness to experiment is contagious. One of his pants making goals is to make flat, thin edges as is mine. I've had issues with getting the contour waistbands I prefer to lay smoothly and flat. I have curvy upper hips with my weight right below the waist. I'd have an easier time of it if I just used a straight waistband at my waist, but I don't love them. I cut these pants out using several of his ideas. One, I used 1/4" sas at the waist and at the bottom of the band. This is often where I run into problems just sewing the very curvy seam. Using narrow sas make sewing a curve easier and I don't need extra in case sas there. Secondly I made a separate pattern for the interfacing without sas. The third thing I did was to make the facing in a bias shirting (the red facings in the picture) in a wider width to cover the pressed open waistband seam. I'm not sure exactly how I'll construct these yet; Coffin's sample has an extended tab band that I don't want. This is where the experimenting comes into play. We'll see where it leads me.
If I were sewing professionally I'd make a dozen of these, but I don't really have the time, and it's kind of boring, so I'll make mistakes, But, I have my trusty seam ripper and I don't mind hand basting. He sews his pants in the ditch by hand to hold the facing in place. I may do it this way too because with my very curvy hip it may very well be easier to sew it flat.
Notes on a Pattern - McCall M7445 Pants
45 minutes ago