On to other sewing. I figured out why the Threads directions for narrowing pants legs doesn't work for me. It's ok in the back, but in the front it flattens out crotch curve and this does not work on my body. I need a deeper front curve or I get ugly vertical wrinkles pointing to the front crotch. So I've been struggling to get my black pants sewn up to where I'll be happy to wear them and decided a break was in order. Instead I've been taking a page from Karen and tracing off patterns and getting them altered to fit my body; always a lengthy task. I wanted a vest and I found one in an old Knipmode, yeh I am actually going to make something from my collection of Knips. I traced a couple of tops from the latest Burda and I transferred the changes I made to my pants to my pattern. I need to trace a pencil skirt and then I'll go back to my pants, and sew up the blouse I cut out too.
On the experimenting front the narrow sas on the waist band works really well. It is much easier to sew opposite curves when the sas is narrow, in this case 1/4". On the other hand, the fabric is another one with too much lycra. I like a small amount, like 1% which is very hard to find, but when you get up to 3% it is yard to get pants to stay without sewing them a lot tighter than I like them to be. Of course after an hour they'll be a lot looser!
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Finish the entire neckline with woven bias? I can see maybe the back, but not the whole thing. Some of my more casual RTW knit tops have woven bias or twill to stabilize stretchy parts.
ReplyDeleteI don't think I'd use bias tape either. I'd make a test top and try using clear elastic to stabilize that edge and prevent gapping. And then I'd fold that over. I used this same technique on Simplicity 4076 wrap version, which I learned from Ann's blog at Gorgeous Things.
ReplyDeleteI'm in agreement with Little Hunting Creek. I forgot who I learned the technique from. But I add clear elastic to the neckline of my knit tops.
ReplyDeleteI wish I'd remembered about the clear elastic before I made my crossover Simplicity 4076! I'll give it a try for this one. Thanks.
ReplyDeleteI think someone was asleep at the wheel when they chose that neckline treatment. The clear elastic technique would be much better.
ReplyDeleteAnother agreement on elastic too, or only a strip of double folded fabric, attached while stretching it a bit (like on a t-shirt neckline). Depends a bit on the fabric, but sometimes that is enough.
ReplyDeleteNancy - I made a very similar Vogue pattern (V8558)just a few months ago. It had a wider band at the neck than this pattern, and it called for you to use the same knit as the rest of the top, stabilized with fusible stretch interfacing.
ReplyDeleteHowever, instead of doing that, I opted to use a satin from my stash (so, a woven) and I couldn't be happier with the results. Now, I wouldn't finish the top in question with bias tape (that is just odd), but my point is that I finished a knit top with a woven and it looks great and gives the top a bit of style.
Here is my post about it: http://fivemuses.blogspot.com/2010/03/very-easy-vogue-5885.html
Amanda has a tutorial on her blog where she finishes neck edges with woven bias tape on knit shirts. She says it works for her.
ReplyDeleteGood luck with your pants alterations!
I've made this one, and I had the same reaction to the neckline finish, but now that it is done, I actually think it would have worked, and the wrap gives you plenty of space to get it over your head without the stretch. That said, I still think it's clumsy. I used picot elastic for stabilization and trim all in one step, but clear elastic would be nice and clean if you didn't want the trim part. I will say that I found the cup sizes to be overly generous. Word to the wise.
ReplyDeleteGood for me! I am a DD cup so the D cup should work well.
ReplyDeleteI was going to mention that Amanda uses bias tape for her knits and swears by it.
ReplyDeleteI will have to check Amanda's tutorial. I would treat the neckline as a t-shirt, using self-fabric binding (doubled), stretching it around the neckline, RST. Then, folding the binding to the WS and stitching.
ReplyDeleteI had a tracing day too.
I'd never use woven bias on a knit either! I agree with Katie (KidMD) it just looks clumsy. I vote clear elastic!
ReplyDeleteYou just wouldn't. Use an elasticated tape instead.
ReplyDeleteLots of different opinions - so I'll add mine too!
ReplyDeleteI abhor clear elastic, and if bias tape is cut to the correct length and distributed correctly, I see no problem technically. From an aesthetic point of view I would make my own out of a nicer cloth.
I just finished making that Vogue top and I didn't do that crazy neck finish. I simply turned the edge under, with the help of some steam-a-seam, and coverstitched. Worked perfectly. I do need to shorten the front edges a bit next time since there is a little bit of gaping on that long v-neck...not bad though.
ReplyDeleteYou all say "use an elastic tape" but that's not enough information. Use it HOW? Does anyone have a link to a tutorial on this?
ReplyDelete