This seems kind of redundant after yesterday's post, but here's a similar dilemma where I'd welcome your opinions.
As I wrote yesterday, I have been tracing patterns and this one is actually in my sewing queue.(unlike the Vogue).
It's 143 from Burda 6/10. It's a knit, but it calls for a neck facing front and back, and then I guess without much stretch would need the invisible zipper called for in the side. I don't really like using clear elastic, but I do have some knit stay tape that might work. I would rather not use a facing and then have to put in a zipper. I am planning on using some silk jersey that I have in my stash. The jersey doesn't have any lycra in it, so it doesn't have as much stretch. I'm not inclined to do a french binding; I think that it will be too thick. Would it work using my knit stay tape and just turning and topstitching do you think? Is there some reason they've used a facing and I'm just not seeing it? If I don't use the facing I'd leave out the zipper. 
By the way, I went to the English archives, which is still there, and from there I actually found the old style Burda English site for the current issue. Kind of bizarre. Burda Archives and since they don't have the current issue up, on the left is a link to Burda Style Magazine. What is going on here? They announce that we are being redirected to Burda Style but now we can find the old site? Regardless of why or how I am happy to have access to them.
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I think the facing is to support and conceal the bulk of the gathered shoulder strap. I'd be tempted to chose a lightweight knit, fully line and skip the facings.
ReplyDeleteI would use a facing in this instance because the gathered shoulder strap would be enclosed, and I personally prefer the structure a facing provides.
ReplyDeleteAlso, I would try a shorter 4" zip in this style.
The lining is a great idea. I'd hadn't thought of that.
ReplyDeleteI'd use a lining too. It will give a cleaner finish and not create an 'ironing line' if you are using a fine or lightweight knit. Either way watch the bulk from the gathered strap.
ReplyDeleteI am pretty sure I saw this made up by someone (sorry don't remember so not helpful - maybe Burdastyle) and they did not use the facing. I think it would also depend on your knit - weather it would sag or not.
ReplyDeleteI agree that the facings are to clean-finish and support the gathered "sleeve." I also like the idea to fully line it in lieu of the facings.
ReplyDeleteAs to whether you need the zipper or not, that will depend on if the fabric at the waist has enough stretch to go over the bust on the way down. I don't think the need (or not) for a zipper is affected by facings or no facings. You can always plan for a zipper and then baste the top and try it on before you commit to actually inserting one.
You'd want the facing or a lining, and you definitely want to stabilize the heck out of that off the shoulder neckline. Otherwise it will stretch out of shape. I have a few knit pieces (a little bolero) with facings, I like them. It lends some stability, but you still have other great properties of knits.
ReplyDeleteI wouldn't do facings, either. I would do a single binding or just steam a seam, turn and stitch. I think if the neckline is topstitched it will hold down the gathered strap just fine.
ReplyDeleteI just made this top, which I love. Did my usual neckline treatment of fold over a clear elastic and stitch. Gathered the strap, topstitched to the neckline. Perfect. I'd rather be shredded by a rotary cutter than use facings in knits.
ReplyDeleteLet me qualify this a bit. There's a Jalie top (2682) which really needs the bodice lined to lie nicely, and a Sandra Betzina in Vogue with a draped neck that needs the same. But these are structural necessities, and note that I said lining. And I'm wearing a big cowl-neck today with cut-on facings that are simply flopped inside, but that's also different. There's no way that a facing can really work in a knit, they are a woven technique..
Oh, and of course leave out the zipper, what a ridiculous concept in a t-shirt!
ReplyDeleteThank you Marie-Christine. I do like the idea of using a lining to give the neckline a nice clean finish, but I really hesitate to line this summer top. I don't do well with heat!
ReplyDeleteI have two CWC tops that have facings and I love them. I've thought about putting facings on some of my knits - but to date I haven't!
ReplyDeleteMarciae
Normally, I do not use facings in knits. However, I have a Textile Studios Madison Ave dress pattern that uses a facing in the front to form the V and it really makes the dress lie nicely. Also, I have several knit tops from Weekenders (both tanks and ts) that have wide faced necklines and I absolutely love them. I'm probably going to try it the next time I want a nicer looking T.
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