Follow along as I sew what I wear, cook and garden.
Tuesday, November 23, 2010
Latest Pants Finished
Now that I have a good tnt pants pattern to work from sewing a pair of pants is a pretty simple thing. I don't have to play with fit so I've been concentrating on finish. I sew a simple pair of pants without details at the hip or waist. With my full high hip and pear shaped figure I don't want to add any bulk to that area, hence simple pants. What I have been working on is getting the inside to look nicer. I don't sew a zipper facing. I don't like the bulk. I do like using petersham to face my waistbands. Especially in wool it's is very comfortable. I interface the outer band with fusible weft leaving it out of the seam allowances which gives a firm straight edge to press the top seam allowance down. when I press under the outer edge and it helps line up the petersham as well. The fabric is a wool and lycra houndstooth from Mood.
You'll notice that the waistband is extended with the end turned back so that that edge will be finished. I've lined up the petersham, which is 2" wide, just below the pressed fold. Both ends of the waistband are extended so that the seam is not at the end of the band. This gives a flatter, crisper finish. It's best to make sure that the underlap side is a bit shallower than the overlap so that it is covered when you fasten the pants. There are several different construction orders for sewing pants, but my order is as follows:
Sew darts and fly front. Then I sew the inseam and baste the rest of the center back. I pin the outseams and try it on with some 1" elastic. I'd be better off having a muslin waistband to baste on, which I plan on making up to have in the studio. After adjusting the fit (every fabric seems to fit a bit differently) I undo the back basting and sew up the side seams. I apply the waistband in two pieces sewing the outer band to my pants. Then I apply the petersham. I sew the centerback next from the previous sttiching to the top of the unfolded petersham. I fold it down and stitch in the ditch.. Sew on hooks and hem. Done.
I actually finished these a couple of weeks ago and have been wearing them quite a bit. They are comfortable as well as a being a good fit. Of course, isn't that part of fitting well?
I have to give credit to Lindsay for her instructions on how to photograph your clothing on the flat. I didn't drop out the outside though. To lazy to spend the time in Photoshop. I used a roll of white paper and laid it out under the skylight in my sewing room, a footstool placed me high enough above the pants.
I have been sewing since I was a teenager, mostly self taught. I sew for myself, with some some occasional sewing for my daughter. I love garment sewing and will only sew home dec if desperate. I love to cook and read and try to avoid cleaning as much as possible.