Follow along as I sew what I wear, cook and garden.
Tuesday, May 10, 2011
Nothing but sewing disasters here. I can't believe what rookie mistakes I've made. I am sewing a sweater knit top with little stretch and I made it too tight. So , I figured I'll add black rayon knit bands down the sides. Perfect. I went to pick up the sleeves to sew and I had actually cut a piece out of one of them. I wanted a sample for my board. There are plenty of scraps, and I cut it out of the sleeve. Can you believe it? What a disaster. Of course I don't have enough extra to cut another sleeve. Marcy Tilton still had the fabric the last time I looked but I am not sure I even want to order another yard to fix this. My ufo double top was great, shown above Burda 112 8/10 until I went to hem it. The outer fabric is hard to sew and hem so I figured I'd just leave it unfinished. It's semi sheer. I cut too much off and it's ok, but the bottom rolls up unevenly and looking in the photos it looks like it is uneven. I swear it isn't. My tnt pants developed a drape at the bottom of the leg after I split it down the middle to make it larger. You can see it in the picture as well. I re balanced the leg after I did this but why it is in the later pair of pants and not the earlier before I made them bigger I can't figure out. I did play around with how they hang on my body and they the inseam appears to be too long. When I pinned it in horizontal dart that drag line disappeared. Grr. I need to get my sewing back to even good here before I tackle my wedding finery. I think that II am just going to let the knit top go. I don't love it enough to buy another yard of fabric to fix it.
I do like the fit on the Burda double top so I am going to make another top, but a single layer. Simple two sleeves and a nice neckline using the new technique I learned in
Lynda Maynard's The Dressmaker's Handbook of Couture Sewing Techniques I found a copy in the new book section at the library. I used her single fold binding on knit fabrics for the tops. It's a really great technique. Easy to do and it looks very professional. It's far easier than the methods where you quarter a circle and apply the binding as a circle. and it lays flat and close to the body and even on hard to sew fabric like the textured layer on my double top. I was not stupid enough to try and use it with a strip of self fabric, but delved into the scrap bin and used a nice white rayon and lycra knit instead. A note on fit here. There are no darts on this top, but my DD cup bust needs darts no matter what I am making. I added short darts in the front armholes to take up the folds there when I was tissue fitting the top. Somewhere on the internet, I think it's under David Paige Coffins You Tube videos, there is a video of Marcy Tilton fitting a knit top. She tissue fits them and she shows how to add these darts. They have to be small and short and they work. The only thing I am going to change on this top is to widen the shoulders a little. I have very narrow shoulders and the seams are just past my shoulder bones. I think that a little more width might be flattering. I can always cut it off if I don't like it.
The book itself is a strange amalgam of techniques and imop poorly organized. Sigrid used the pocket staying technique which worked beautifully as well. Kenneth King has a similar technique on the Threads website. Is it worth buying the book? I don't know but Amazon has it for a good price, well below list.
I have been sewing since I was a teenager, mostly self taught. I sew for myself, with some some occasional sewing for my daughter. I love garment sewing and will only sew home dec if desperate. I love to cook and read and try to avoid cleaning as much as possible.