I took Kenneth King's coat class on Craftsy and thought I'd make that jacket. Except it really didn't excite me. Net a Porter is my favorite snoop shopping site. I saw this simple Fendi coat. It was perfect. Of course it's $2600 and doesn't come in my size. The back is simple and the front has an S shaped darted seam running from neck to hip. This is not a flattering line for me so I kept the shoulder princess of the Burda style 113 coat from 12/13.
Burda 113 12/13
The fabric is this nubby burgundy and black wool from Emmaonesock. It was a yard end from Philip Lim if I remember correctly. I'm using a silk charmeuse to line the coat and interlining with cotton flannel. With a warm fabric it makes a coat warm enough for our Long Island weather. At least most of the time. Bunny from La Sewista made her back stay on the coat she's sewing, out of cotton flannel. I always make a back stay but I never thought to make it out of flannel. It will add another layer just where the wind hits.
Back to fitting. I made my usual fitting adjustments to the pattern. I was getting the same drag lines I always get with jackets and coats. My neckline is too high in back with a fold at the base of my neck. I still have trouble reading drag lines; mine runs from the upper back to my hip. I bought Lynda Maynard's fitting class on Craftsy. Everything I did didn't solve all the issues. I have a high rounded back that is part of the problem. but the neck wrinkle isn't solved by the fix for a rounded back. My husband took some pictures that I posted on Craftsy. am anxious to see what Lynda says about my fit. I'd like to get started while it's still winter.
I did figure out that I needed more height in the sleeve cap and that the armscye seam needs to be deeper in the lower back and front.
My sleeves fits better if I shorten it above the elbow. Much more comfortable. As you can see, I still have drag lines. Grr.
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While I'm waiting I'm going to cut out Sewing Workshop's Olive top in black wool jersey from Manhattan Fabrics. My favorite Riri zipper is waiting for the back. Most of their patterns are not my taste or style. Like that blouse I posted recently, they are mostly just too shapeless and big for me. But I liked the lines of the Olive. The photos in the their gallery showed a flattering fit on all of the women shown; perfect.
I am definitely spoiled by the ease of fitting knits. The stretch just glosses over some of the more glaring fitting issues that I have. Also, I think that I am a little more forgiving of knit fit. But I do know that I need a break from fitting this coat!
An addendum, I think that I am going to make a muslin of the coat with it's alterations from KK's class. I'm not sure about the round neck on the Burda.
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Nancy, I feel your fitting pain. I, too, have a (ahem) mature figure and find sewing with knits easier than tailored fabrics but I urge you to continue on your quest. Isn't it wonderful that we have this sewing community to guide and offer us possible solutions for our fitting issues?
ReplyDeleteKaren
I have drag lines from armholes to waist. But when I eliminate them the top ends up to tight across the shoulder after I pull my arms across my upper chest. It I super annoying. But in many instances I am trying to live with it. On a nice coat with all that work I sure would want to be rid of them. Good luck with the coat.
ReplyDeleteI too feel your fitting pain, it's a struggle. I'm sure though that all your efforts will pay off in the end and your coat will be gorgeous. Good idea to do something else in between, it's a nice top. Never seen it before.
ReplyDeleteIt will be interesting to hear what Lynda says. It looks like fabric needs to be pinched out at the neck..or does it need more fabric somewhere else to let it pull down a bit???? Same for the hip ones. I did Lynda's fit class and made the dress and it fits well in theory but when I wear it it feels too big and I am not sure why. Oh, and I have also signed up for KK's coat class but also am not enamoured with the pattern provided.
ReplyDeleteNancy, can you do a muslin in a more substantial fabric? I'd like to see what happens to the wrinkles in a coat-weight. Do you have the same wrinkles in a RTW coat?
ReplyDeleteI don't own a rtw coat. Haven't in years. Lynda was very quick to respond and she said to redraw the back neck to wear I want it. I did and that works fine. She said that the wrinkles I have in the back hip now are because I need more ease. I did that as well and it looks better. I didn't show the front because it's kind of a mess! I had an issue with getting the right shape for my bust after I made the fba. I took it in, too tight out and it was too big. Then I added to the cf princess seam and blended it into the seams and that seems to work better. It was only about 3/16" that I needed. After all this I looked at the expanse of white muslin and wondered if I had made the right pattern choice. I drew it on my croquis and the combination of the oversized pockets and the long black leather stripes it works. I also pegged int he hem a bit. As to making this in a thicker fabric I'll look through my stash and see what I have that might work. I agree that this muslin is a bit flimsy but I had a lot of it on hand.
ReplyDeleteYour left shoulder is a bit lower than your right and it's causing the coat to sort of drift (for lack of a better word) to the right. Yours is very minor. I had the same problem on a coat muslin, but much worse. . I didn't realize how much it was affecting my fit until I took it to an ASG meeting to have someone pin fit my sleeve. She picked it up right away. I know in the King Craftsy class (I took it also) he say's to pad up the lower shoulder. I haven't even tried to start fitting that pattern!!!
ReplyDeleteFitting can be a royal pain as we age. I spent do much time fitting the coat pattern that I've lost a bit of steam on even starting the coat! The good thing is I don't need it, need it. I'll probably pick it back up early spring or next fall.
I certainly wish you the very best with fitting your coat Nancy. I do so understand what you are dealing with. Fitting is so much easier with a helper who knows what he/she is doing. Wish I were there to help. I'm dealing with the same thing here - fitting myself by myself.
ReplyDeleteLynda Maynard's fitting class on Craftsy is quite good for understanding general principles of fitting - although her example is a dress. I think you need to find a 'fit buddy'- it's like having a rear view mirror with hands!
ReplyDeleteI've tried to find someone but no one close by. I do have a very good 3 way mirror and a duct tape dress form that is fairly close to my body and I can pin on it. I think that I have to add some rear high hip fluff to her so that she approximates me better.
DeleteThanks for posting Nancy. It is reassuring to know that someone as skilled as you encounters fitting problems. It does seem that every it only takes a coupe years for the body to change a bit and then I am back at square one. Keep going, I am confident you will accomplish your goal. I love your inspiration coat.
ReplyDeleteLOL, Yeah the body does do that, at least for me. Weight gain hasn't helped either. When I first watched Maynard's class I was disappointed in the limited scope of it, but she is very open to helping with fit issues she hasn't covered. I may even work on the dress that came with the class just to get a basic fitted sloper out of it. I've learned a lot and she's very helpful. She's on the west coast and I'm on the east coast. I posted in mid morning. and by afternoon I had an answer.
DeleteI feel your pain! I too am alone with my 3-way (mirror, that is) and my 60+ y.o. body. I was going to suggest that your left shoulder is a little lower than your right, but Debbie beat me to it. :-)
ReplyDeleteI had not seen the Olive top until yesterday, while researching sewing with sweater knits. If you want to see it made up, check out Kathryn Brenne's sample garments on her "Warm up to Knits" article at Emma One Sock: http://www.emmaonesock.com/guides/kbsweaterknits6.asp
That's where I saw the top and decided that it was worth sewing. If you bought fabric at Waechter's at their last sale you got 20% off a pattern, so I bought this one along with the cotton flannel for my interlining.
DeleteTimes like this I wish that I could see because when I lust after a Fendi coat the best I can do is admire yours! I bet it will turn out fabulously!
ReplyDeleteI can vouch that fitting and building a tailored coat can get very intense and I think has to be done in doses. I urge you to keep at it. There is a lot of ease built into a coat and that seems to get eaten up when the muslin gets made up in heavy coating., if thqt helps. Maybe an old cheap blanket from Good will would work for your muslin?
ReplyDeleteIt's too bad, Nancy, we are both in NY but at opposite ends of a very large state. There is nothing I would love more than to share fitting buddy responsibilities with you. I think we are kindred sewing spirits anyway as you seem to share many of my "views". Keep blogging about the coat process. I love honest blogging where we see someone work through the issues we all have albeit slightly different. I really appreciate you telling it the way it is happening for you and sharing it with us all. Hopefully we can all share some constructive criticism with you as well.
Enjoy making the great top. You really need these palette cleansers when sewing intensely.