I love simple coats with something different that makes them stand out and here it's the oversize pockets. I made several paper samples and I still ended up making them twice. The coat also has bound buttonholes, my go to for coats. I hadn't made them in awhile, so that meant lots of samples with some different methods. Judy Burlap's bound buttonhole instructions, available on her website, are some of the easiest, best I've used. I made three buttonholes that match and all of the lips are even.
When I plan a coat I debate endlessly with myself about how much tailoring structure I really want in the coat. For this one I wanted a light soft look and feel because the fabric is airy and light. Allison Smith's class on Craftsy gave me the opportunity to try hybrid tailoring. It's light but gave me just enough body for this coat. I think that I am addicted to Craftsy classes!
All in all I am very pleased with the coat, especially the fit. I finally got the armscye and sleeve fit perfected. I have a low right shoulder that has a bit different rotation than the left one due to an old injury, so while the left one will hang perfectly, the right one is a different story. I learned that I need to rotate it more than the left one. I also learned that my narrow shoulders need a higher sleeve cap. to hang perfectly. This I got from another Craftsy class, Lynda Maynard's fitting class. I've had the shoulder problem for 34 years but age has changed it as it has the rest of my body. Learning to fit my aging body has sometimes been a challenge.
The other thing I do to accommodate my uneven shoulders is to add to my right shoulder pad. I add padding and keep trying it on until both shoulders look even. Then I use some tailor tacks to keep the layers together.
I usually start with existing shoulder pads, especially if I want to use extended pads which are not easy to make yourself. Apple Annie fabrics has some very nice shoulder pads that are a combination of set in and raglan. Years ago Threads had a series of articles on Armani tailoring and this is the type of shoulder pad he uses. Because my low point is really that my arm is lower, this really makes it easier to even up my shoulders. I add the padding to the end of the pad but not into the extension. As you can see, it works well. It also fills out the sleeve cap. I didn't use a sleeve head.
The photos we took that showed the lining weren't great, so when I get a chance I'll take some new ones and post them.