Hot Patterns Riviera Bouldevard Jacket/cardigan

One UFO finished! If you remember back when I started this blog I was making a knit cardigan, the above mentioned Hot Patterns jacket. I finished it before I tore my studio apart, but it's been just too hot to put on a wool jacket! Today it's in the mid 70's. Perfect for an outdoor photo session.

Pattern Description: Cardigan jacket designed for heavy knits. Unlined, cropped single breast jacket has a gentle A line shape and a classic collar and rever. Faux pocket flaps at the yoke and vertical seam pockets.

Pattern Sizing:6-26 What size did I make? Several, starting with a 10 or 12 in the upper body. But, honestly, I don't remember, this is a ufo from last winter that I just finished.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, other than I left off the faux flaps.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Pretty much. It's recommended for intermediate sewers and I'd agree with that assessment. The illustrations now included in the instructions are only marginally helpful.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I liked the lines of this and I thought that a cardigan sweater would be cozy and comfortable and take simple pants and top up a level. It's not fitted, but it isn't too boxy either, which is not becoming on me.
I don't like the separate hem facings because I think that it contributed to the flaring out at the hem that I had. I understand why Trudy designed it like this, because it's an a-line shape, but I think that I could reduce the hem width like a pair of pants and one, make it simpler to construct and secondly the bottom edge would be softer and drape better, something I think that would benefit this jacket. I did use a heavier interfacing than was recommended and that might have contributed to the problem.
I do not like the method of sewing the collar and lapels that is used in the instructions. Most of the jacket patterns I've seen lately have you attach the upper collar to the facings, the under collar to the jacket and then attach the collar and facings as a unit. I think that there is a lot less control with this method. Maybe it's just that I've been making jackets the old fashioned way for so long and making a change is hard. I did do it as per the instructions and I think that while it's ok, I could have done it better my way.
The bottom line is that none of the patterns these days have good tailoring instructions and I'd use other sources for tailoring jackets, which I did.
Fabric Used: Wool cashmere heavy knit from Michaels Fabrics. It fit the description of a heavy knit without much stretch.
It is not a double knit. It's a gorgeous quality and I bought during one of their half price sales.
Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I left off the faux flaps. I didn't need added bulk at the bust. I cut this by the sizes on the envelope and didn't make an fba, but I should have added to the length if not the width. It hikes a bit in the front.
I added shoulder pads instead of altering for my sloping shoulders because they are flattering on my pear shaped figure. I did a forward shoulder adjustment, but I was very surprised when I did a tissue fitting and didn't have to make any other changes. I ended up taking in the hip quite a bit as it was flaring out too much, more than a gentle a line. I touched on this above, I don't know if it is the fault of my interfacing or the hem seam, or it was just too much ease for me. I also don't like how the neck facing shows through at the back of the jacket. I did cut it a bit smaller to accommodate being on the inside, but it still ripples a bit. I'll try giving it a better steaming and pounding and see if its any flatter. I may have not taken enough out of the seams to match my shoulder alterations.
The other change I made is using a technique that is in a lot of sewing books. The interfacing is seamed in a 1/4" seam right sides together at the outer edges and then turned to the inside and then fused to the facing creating a nice finished edge. You can do this with a sew in interfacing of course, which is how I learned to do it in the dark ages before fusibles.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?I won't sew another one I don't think. I tend to sew multiples of tops and pants, but jackets I like to be different. If I find another interesting knit with a different look I might be tempted. I will say that the fitting on this was one of the easiest jackets I've ever fitted and I am picky, so yes I highly recommend this, especially to the fuller busted women. But, do add at least length to the cf if not a complete fba.
A bit of advice, do not make this with a double knit with lycra. You'll have trouble with some of the details because of the stretch.
Conclusion: One ufo down, and I haven't counted how many more should be finished or just chucked. But, I am pleased with this jacket. It is exactly what I wanted: a comfortable, but more structured sweater to pull an outfit together. I will be sewing other garments to co-ordinate with this jacket. There are lots of coordinating fabrics in my stash.

Worth a try

The buttonholer fits, but it doesn't sit tight onto the machine bed. So, no good. I think I'll put it away and look for an older Singer to use for a buttonhole machine. This is a Professional Buttonholer V102878 for a vertical needle zig zag sewing machine. Anybody have suggestions on what older Singer that would work with this buttonholer? It would also be nice if it made great straight stitches!

My New Old Buttonholer

There has been much written lately on the blolgosphere lately about what great buttonholes the old Singer buttonholer makes. So when Nancy2001 posed the question on PR, can this be used on a newer machine, specifically her Viking 770 I perked up. I hate the buttonholes on my Viking Platinum 750. It will make 2 and then get caught up and I have to rip a buttonhole out. Not fun. I bought this Singer Professional Buttonholer V102878 on E bay for $4.95 plus shipping. You'll notice the files next to my machine. My wonderful husband filed out the claw that fits over the needle clamp, that and a little prying and it fit. He only had to file out about a 1/16 of an inch, but he thinks it's made of hardened steel so this was not all that quick. Now I have to make buttonholes! Stay tuned.

What else have I been doing? Reorganizing my fabric collection. I have it all on a spread sheet with the bin numbers after every fabric, but when it comes to finding things on that list and what bin it's in, well, not so quick. Putting fabrics back? Really not quick. So I decided to put like fabrics together and use my new Brother labeler to print out nice, neat labels for my fabric types.
Here's whats left of the mess:

Here's what my fabric closet looks like now. See all my pretty labels? Now to get the rest of my sewing room and studio to look like this.

Next up is a review of Hot Patterns 1031 the Riviera Boulevard Cardigan Jacket. Probably tomorrow.

Help Ripping Seams

picture is from Rockler's website, no I don't tie flies!

My dh gets e mail notification from Rockler, a woodwork supply site on sales. The last sale I got this great led magnifying lamp. You can clamp it on your worktable or it has a magnet in the base and you can just attach it magnetically to a metal table or machine or it attaches to the clamp magnetically. It works on battery or household current. It doesn't take up a lot of room and I push it out of the way when I don't need it. Having had issues with the buttonholes I've been trying to make today it was a godsend when I had to rip them out! They are having a sale again so I though I'd pass on the information.

New Patterns

I just bought a few of the new Vogues when the sale was on, and now I've bought 2 of the new Hot Patterns. Like there is a dearth of patterns in my studio! I couldn't resist this new top pattern. It's like the Rick Owens top we had a big thread about on PR a few months ago its also reminiscent of the new Donna Karan tops, though probably more like Rick. While I love draped v necks, this one may be a bit too cowl and too much drape for my bust, but I'll try it and see. I'm sure that I can find a knit in my stash, ahem, collection that will work.
The one on the upper right is the one that's like the Rick Owens.
I also bought this pair of pants. I don't like straight elastic waist pants because with a big difference between my waist and hips (though not as much as it used to be!) there is usually too much fabric at my hip. But this has a fly front and drawstring so I can control the amount of fabric and still get them on. It's an easy pant that I may use for an exercise pant.
While I'm talking patterns, these are the ones I bought from Vogue.
This is Vogue 1125.
Marcy Tilton V8598
V8599
I like the shoulder princess of this blouse. I have found an fba easier to do on the shoulder princess, and I can much more easily narrow my shoulders with this cut. I was practical in my choices. I am not going to make any of those wonderful sheath dresses; I just don't have enough places to wear them. Can you imagine me sitting at my drafting table or out in the field in these? Even going out to a nice restaurant is so casual around here. If I lived in a city I would love to make more serious clothing. Kind of boring, huh? I just don't have the body for trendy clothing, which I love. Oh, and I bought the August issue of Knipmode. I passed on Patrones. The July issue is full of bikinis and summer clothing.
I still haven't forgotten my motorcycle jacket. I have the Burda pattern I'm going to play with to get the right shape. I'll enjoy making that. Sewing on beautiful wools is just a pleasure. Even though I sew a lot of knits these days I love the complexity of sewing jackets and coats and the ability to manipulate and mold wool.
Next post will be my fall sewing plan. I've been making lists, lots of lists. Now I've got to firm up my plans and put it out there so that maybe I'll stay at least close to it!

Vogue 1091

Pattern Description: Loose-fitting, above knee pullover dress has elasticized front and back neckline, short sleeves and top-stitched hems.

Pattern Sizing: 8-24

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Mostly. There wasn't as much gathering in the front band as on the model.

Were the instructions easy to follow?Yes, it's a simple dress. They have you make a thread chain to hold your bra straps in place, which is necessary, but they don't give you directions on how to make one, so you'll need instructions for that. They are typical of most of the pattern companies in that they don't use knit construction techniques and use 5/8" sas.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I wanted an easy, airy summer dress and this certainly fits the bill. No Spanx required. I also liked that even though it is A Very Easy Vogue, it has some nice construction detailing that is usually absent from their easy patterns.
Fabric Used:
A rayon lycra from Marcy Tilton. On her site she frequently suggests cutting knits on the cross grain (when they are 4 way stretch) to make stripes vertical and other patterns more flattering on the figure. I didn't have enough material to cut this on the straight grain, so I cut it on the cross and it worked out fine. There is a lot of stretch in both directions and this is a very loose dress.
Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
I did a totally unnecessary fba. There would have been more than enough room for my DD bust considering I took it in about 4" in bust blending into the hip. I also lengthened it to mid knee.
I needed to remove about 1.5" from the back elastic and about the same from the front elastic to pull the neckline closer to my body. I could have taken in more in the front. I'd suggest trying this on with the elastic pinned in place to make sure that the back and front lay close to the body. I have a flat back, so this might make a difference.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, in a plain fabric after I remove the fba, and yes I highly recommend it.

Conclusion: This is an easy to make and wear summer dress and even chic especially with my gladiator sandals. After yesterdays heat and humidity it's just a terrific summer dress that is actually chic and not too young and last night while browsing blogs I saw this posting at
You Look Fab about losing the waist so I am right on target here.

Burda, Formerly Known as Burda World of Fashion

August Burda arrived today and I am underwhelmed. The added crafts have been the topic of discussion on several blogs. 16 pages of crafts, most of them rather tacky at that. Some are embellishing rtw pieces some of them are home decor and one page is 'use up those scraps" in some not very creative, contrary to their caption, DIY Fabric Accessories and they have it on page 6. My least favorite 'fashion' crafting is on page 21, the 'Flutter Effect" Fake leather fringed and attached to a rtw tee shirt, a scarf and a pair of boots. If I wanted craft projects there are a lot of magazines out there that already offer them and do it a lot better than Burda. I won't even discuss their strange tea party crafts.
As for the clothes, well I am not particularly enamored of them either. It's even harder to see them and we can't even go on line and see a different view as they've discontinued that.
I hate that it's usually only one garment in an outfit that has a pattern and it usually isn't the piece I like! I have over 10 years of Burda magazines and I have never in all those years done any of the crafts. They've changed the magazine a lot, but strangely they have left the carnival costumes and next month the annual Alpine Folk Style! yet again. Does anyone make anything from either of these costuming sections? I certainly haven't. We also have 'DIY trendy DIY folklore accessories to look forward to next month. I am due for renewal and I think that I will only pay for 6 months and see what happens.
Feel free to express your opinion on the new Burda. Rant if you want to, and if you disagree with me that's ok too.

On the sewing front, I finished a dress before we went away and when I get photos of it I'll post a review. Yes. I made a dress. I really like the ease of it. Of course it's kind of hard to wear a dress when I am out working, but I also work at home without ac, so a cool easy dress is just the ticket.
I made this Vogue Tom and Linda Platt design.


Seth doesn't love it, but I do.