Are You Happy With What You Sew?

Another blogger Clever Girl published a post on her sewing satisfaction, and this morning a sewer on PR posted about her dissatisfaction with her sewing. Over the years I've had periods of time when I wasn't happy with my sewing for various reasons, one of them being poor fit. If it's uncomfortable and if you don't look great in what you sew you won't wear it. More recently I wasn't happy with the quality of my sewing. My grandmother always said that the inside of clothing should look as good as the outside. Mine certainly didn't. I've worked on this, and while I am still not 100% happy with my results on this front, it is much better. If you start out with a pattern that fits you, then you don't have to rip out as much and so the garment looks much fresher when you're finished. I've worked on my details. My topstitching is good. Openings are matching lengths, which is obviously front and center and if this isn't correct, than it is just glaring, as least to me. My zippers are well sewn. I still have issues with my buttonholes, but this is more a machine issue than my fault. I can make very nice bound buttonholes!
My fit has really improved enormously over the last few years. I tissue fit; I sew in an order that allows me to try on a lot during sewing. I rarely get truly surprised about fit anymore. I had a lot of wadders when I first started sewing knits, especially the more difficult, softer sorts like rayon lycras. This was particularly discouraging as I live in pants and knit tops. Part of my problem was figuring out the ease I like with various kinds of knits. It also didn't help that one of the first patterns I tried is a small brand that designs with a lot of negative ease. Not my favorite kind of fit! Now I rarely have a wadder with my knits. I have learned not to rely solely on pattern directions or to be tied to them but to use my own judgment on construction with much better results. Another thing that makes me happier with my sewing is learning to sew for my lifestyle, not just what calls to me but no place to wear it. If I take weeks to tailor a fabulous suit, but I don't wear suits, then I don't have anything to wear in my everyday life.
So on the whole, yes I am happy with what I've been sewing lately. I haven't written about my failures, but maybe I should. A lot can be learned from failure.
So are you happy with your sewing? If not, why not and if you are, share your tips for happier sewing.
Have a great weekend.

An update on the Hot Patterns jacket

An update.
I just pinned out the shoulder seams of the facing, from zero at the neckline to a good inch at each outside edge of the facing. That is a considerable amount! This is after I had already removed some of the ease. No wonder it rippled. I am going to un stitch it from the shoulder pads and take it in. I don't know if I made a mistake when I traced the facings, or a mistake in the drafting, but it is bothering me, so I'll see if I can fix it. Why I didn't notice this before I finished the jacket is beyond me, except that every wrinkle you don't see in person shows up in pictures. Here's a picture of the back.
You can just see the rippling of the facing. I put it on my dress form and it with it pinned it looks a lot smoother.
That picture of my rear end is why I am fitting a pair of real jeans right now. I have a lot of patterns for jeans, but I am fitting McCalls 5894 Palmer Pletsch's 'the Perfect Jean' There is a lot of ease in my size, even after taking a tuck out of the back for my very flat rear end.
I just went down a size and even that may be too big for stretch denim. I think that the Jalie pattern for stretch denim has negative ease. That may be too tight for me, but I think that this should measure only the size of my hips with no ease. We'll see.

Burda 124 7/07 Twist top.

Another UFO bit the dust! I had cut this out in December for our trip to Florida and never got past the cutting out stage. The fun part was left, and it went together really easily.

Pattern Description: The jersey top has a clever twist. It's shawl collar turns into a knot that nicely shapes the neckline and bust with further flattering emphasis coming from the the empire line seam.

Pattern Sizing:44-52 I graded down to a 42 in the upper body, did an fba and blended it to a 46 in the hips.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow?Surprisingly, for the most part they were. I made the twist top in S4071 twice and they were both wadders. I just couldn't get it. This was actually easy. The only thing I had issue with are the directions for the bust dart that continues and becomes the under bust seam. Not terrible, but a little unclear. You need to sew the underbust dart and continue it in a smooth line into the empire seam. If you don't have to make an fba, it will be a bit smoother I think, so if you do an fba, make sure that you have a smooth transitions from the dart seam into the underbust seam. I've redrawn my pattern.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I love the neckline on this pattern. It is a twist front that isn't too low. After reading Debra H's review of this top, I added to the side by reducing the curve in the very curvy side seam. I only needed half of what I added.
Fabric Used: an 11oz rayon lycra jersey from Emmaonesock. Gorgeous quality and while it drapes beautifully, it has enough weight to make it easy to sew. This is my favorite t shirt material.
Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
I cut it down to a size 42, the size I cut in Burda for the upper body. I didn't need to narrow the shoulders an adjustment I almost always have to do on any pattern so if you are broad shouldered, be warned that this will be too narrow for you. I almost always take out about 3/4" . I did do my usual forward shoulder adjustment. The side seam is very curvy in this pattern and I added a bit to that area and then took it in by about half what I added. Debra H reviewed this and commented on the snug fit. I didn't find it tight, but maybe a bit too figure revealing as I look at the pictures. I didn't use any of the in case sas I'd added just part of the amount I added at the waist. I blended it into a size 46 in the hips, and I did a small fba and added a dart. I used 3/8" sas instead of the 5/8" they call for and 1" in the side seams for 'in case'. If you are using a knit with less stretch the sleeves will be tight. It's fine with my fabric but wouldn't fit well if you had any less stretch. You ask, how much stretch? I never know how to figure this, but its a 4 way stretch with lycra and good recovery. The underarm is quite high, which I like. The cap wasn't too high as is often the case in Burda knits and fit into the body really easily in the flat. I do recommend that you walk the side seams. I don't know if it was from my adjustments or if it is in the drafting, but the front was about a half inch longer at the side seams.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I will definitely sew this again. I love it. It is really comfortable to wear and as I said before, not to low and exposed. I will make again in short sleeves and in long.

Conclusion: This top is fitted, but not too fitted. I feel great in it and that is always a good thing!

Hot Patterns Riviera Bouldevard Jacket/cardigan

One UFO finished! If you remember back when I started this blog I was making a knit cardigan, the above mentioned Hot Patterns jacket. I finished it before I tore my studio apart, but it's been just too hot to put on a wool jacket! Today it's in the mid 70's. Perfect for an outdoor photo session.

Pattern Description: Cardigan jacket designed for heavy knits. Unlined, cropped single breast jacket has a gentle A line shape and a classic collar and rever. Faux pocket flaps at the yoke and vertical seam pockets.

Pattern Sizing:6-26 What size did I make? Several, starting with a 10 or 12 in the upper body. But, honestly, I don't remember, this is a ufo from last winter that I just finished.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, other than I left off the faux flaps.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Pretty much. It's recommended for intermediate sewers and I'd agree with that assessment. The illustrations now included in the instructions are only marginally helpful.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I liked the lines of this and I thought that a cardigan sweater would be cozy and comfortable and take simple pants and top up a level. It's not fitted, but it isn't too boxy either, which is not becoming on me.
I don't like the separate hem facings because I think that it contributed to the flaring out at the hem that I had. I understand why Trudy designed it like this, because it's an a-line shape, but I think that I could reduce the hem width like a pair of pants and one, make it simpler to construct and secondly the bottom edge would be softer and drape better, something I think that would benefit this jacket. I did use a heavier interfacing than was recommended and that might have contributed to the problem.
I do not like the method of sewing the collar and lapels that is used in the instructions. Most of the jacket patterns I've seen lately have you attach the upper collar to the facings, the under collar to the jacket and then attach the collar and facings as a unit. I think that there is a lot less control with this method. Maybe it's just that I've been making jackets the old fashioned way for so long and making a change is hard. I did do it as per the instructions and I think that while it's ok, I could have done it better my way.
The bottom line is that none of the patterns these days have good tailoring instructions and I'd use other sources for tailoring jackets, which I did.
Fabric Used: Wool cashmere heavy knit from Michaels Fabrics. It fit the description of a heavy knit without much stretch.
It is not a double knit. It's a gorgeous quality and I bought during one of their half price sales.
Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I left off the faux flaps. I didn't need added bulk at the bust. I cut this by the sizes on the envelope and didn't make an fba, but I should have added to the length if not the width. It hikes a bit in the front.
I added shoulder pads instead of altering for my sloping shoulders because they are flattering on my pear shaped figure. I did a forward shoulder adjustment, but I was very surprised when I did a tissue fitting and didn't have to make any other changes. I ended up taking in the hip quite a bit as it was flaring out too much, more than a gentle a line. I touched on this above, I don't know if it is the fault of my interfacing or the hem seam, or it was just too much ease for me. I also don't like how the neck facing shows through at the back of the jacket. I did cut it a bit smaller to accommodate being on the inside, but it still ripples a bit. I'll try giving it a better steaming and pounding and see if its any flatter. I may have not taken enough out of the seams to match my shoulder alterations.
The other change I made is using a technique that is in a lot of sewing books. The interfacing is seamed in a 1/4" seam right sides together at the outer edges and then turned to the inside and then fused to the facing creating a nice finished edge. You can do this with a sew in interfacing of course, which is how I learned to do it in the dark ages before fusibles.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?I won't sew another one I don't think. I tend to sew multiples of tops and pants, but jackets I like to be different. If I find another interesting knit with a different look I might be tempted. I will say that the fitting on this was one of the easiest jackets I've ever fitted and I am picky, so yes I highly recommend this, especially to the fuller busted women. But, do add at least length to the cf if not a complete fba.
A bit of advice, do not make this with a double knit with lycra. You'll have trouble with some of the details because of the stretch.
Conclusion: One ufo down, and I haven't counted how many more should be finished or just chucked. But, I am pleased with this jacket. It is exactly what I wanted: a comfortable, but more structured sweater to pull an outfit together. I will be sewing other garments to co-ordinate with this jacket. There are lots of coordinating fabrics in my stash.

Worth a try

The buttonholer fits, but it doesn't sit tight onto the machine bed. So, no good. I think I'll put it away and look for an older Singer to use for a buttonhole machine. This is a Professional Buttonholer V102878 for a vertical needle zig zag sewing machine. Anybody have suggestions on what older Singer that would work with this buttonholer? It would also be nice if it made great straight stitches!

My New Old Buttonholer

There has been much written lately on the blolgosphere lately about what great buttonholes the old Singer buttonholer makes. So when Nancy2001 posed the question on PR, can this be used on a newer machine, specifically her Viking 770 I perked up. I hate the buttonholes on my Viking Platinum 750. It will make 2 and then get caught up and I have to rip a buttonhole out. Not fun. I bought this Singer Professional Buttonholer V102878 on E bay for $4.95 plus shipping. You'll notice the files next to my machine. My wonderful husband filed out the claw that fits over the needle clamp, that and a little prying and it fit. He only had to file out about a 1/16 of an inch, but he thinks it's made of hardened steel so this was not all that quick. Now I have to make buttonholes! Stay tuned.

What else have I been doing? Reorganizing my fabric collection. I have it all on a spread sheet with the bin numbers after every fabric, but when it comes to finding things on that list and what bin it's in, well, not so quick. Putting fabrics back? Really not quick. So I decided to put like fabrics together and use my new Brother labeler to print out nice, neat labels for my fabric types.
Here's whats left of the mess:

Here's what my fabric closet looks like now. See all my pretty labels? Now to get the rest of my sewing room and studio to look like this.

Next up is a review of Hot Patterns 1031 the Riviera Boulevard Cardigan Jacket. Probably tomorrow.

Help Ripping Seams

picture is from Rockler's website, no I don't tie flies!

My dh gets e mail notification from Rockler, a woodwork supply site on sales. The last sale I got this great led magnifying lamp. You can clamp it on your worktable or it has a magnet in the base and you can just attach it magnetically to a metal table or machine or it attaches to the clamp magnetically. It works on battery or household current. It doesn't take up a lot of room and I push it out of the way when I don't need it. Having had issues with the buttonholes I've been trying to make today it was a godsend when I had to rip them out! They are having a sale again so I though I'd pass on the information.