Sunday, August 9, 2009

An update on the Hot Patterns jacket

An update.
I just pinned out the shoulder seams of the facing, from zero at the neckline to a good inch at each outside edge of the facing. That is a considerable amount! This is after I had already removed some of the ease. No wonder it rippled. I am going to un stitch it from the shoulder pads and take it in. I don't know if I made a mistake when I traced the facings, or a mistake in the drafting, but it is bothering me, so I'll see if I can fix it. Why I didn't notice this before I finished the jacket is beyond me, except that every wrinkle you don't see in person shows up in pictures. Here's a picture of the back.
You can just see the rippling of the facing. I put it on my dress form and it with it pinned it looks a lot smoother.
That picture of my rear end is why I am fitting a pair of real jeans right now. I have a lot of patterns for jeans, but I am fitting McCalls 5894 Palmer Pletsch's 'the Perfect Jean' There is a lot of ease in my size, even after taking a tuck out of the back for my very flat rear end.
I just went down a size and even that may be too big for stretch denim. I think that the Jalie pattern for stretch denim has negative ease. That may be too tight for me, but I think that this should measure only the size of my hips with no ease. We'll see.


  1. I certainly hope that you can fix the jacket to your liking. I know how thing like that can irritate you. I do love that jacket thought and am thinking about getting the pattern or trying to find one that is similar which will certainly be cheaper for me.

  2. I'll make sure to check the facing pattern before cutting out my jacket. Thank you for posting about that. I made the Palmer/Pletsch jeans, and really liked them. It takes some tweaking to get a good fit. But, I don't like my jeans skin tight anymore, and it's difficult to find RTW pair that fits well. Good luck with that, and don't give in. It's worth it, once you get a good fit in the jeans.

  3. The jacket looks great. I'm sure you can get the wrinkles out with a little. Hope you have good luck with the jeans.

  4. Is there a center back seam in the facing?...if so you can take that up as well as the side seams. Usually there isn't because the seam would show through in back. But you're right, you'll be happier with it if you take up the facing. It's icky but you'll be really happy with it in the end.

  5. Excellent sewing progress, Nancy! I like your latest works. I want to make that HP jacket one of these days.

  6. I've been looking at this jacket on you for about a week now and I really like it. I love knit fabric sewn into structured styles and the color is great on you.