Follow along as I sew what I wear, cook and garden.
Saturday, August 8, 2009
Burda 124 7/07 Twist top.
Another UFO bit the dust! I had cut this out in December for our trip to Florida and never got past the cutting out stage. The fun part was left, and it went together really easily.
Pattern Description: The jersey top has a clever twist. It's shawl collar turns into a knot that nicely shapes the neckline and bust with further flattering emphasis coming from the the empire line seam.
Pattern Sizing:44-52 I graded down to a 42 in the upper body, did an fba and blended it to a 46 in the hips.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?Yes
Were the instructions easy to follow?Surprisingly, for the most part they were. I made the twist top in S4071 twice and they were both wadders. I just couldn't get it. This was actually easy. The only thing I had issue with are the directions for the bust dart that continues and becomes the under bust seam. Not terrible, but a little unclear. You need to sew the underbust dart and continue it in a smooth line into the empire seam. If you don't have to make an fba, it will be a bit smoother I think, so if you do an fba, make sure that you have a smooth transitions from the dart seam into the underbust seam. I've redrawn my pattern.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love the neckline on this pattern. It is a twist front that isn't too low. After reading Debra H's review of this top, I added to the side by reducing the curve in the very curvy side seam. I only needed half of what I added. Fabric Used: an 11oz rayon lycra jersey from Emmaonesock. Gorgeous quality and while it drapes beautifully, it has enough weight to make it easy to sew. This is my favorite t shirt material. Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I cut it down to a size 42, the size I cut in Burda for the upper body. I didn't need to narrow the shoulders an adjustment I almost always have to do on any pattern so if you are broad shouldered, be warned that this will be too narrow for you. I almost always take out about 3/4" . I did do my usual forward shoulder adjustment. The side seam is very curvy in this pattern and I added a bit to that area and then took it in by about half what I added. Debra H reviewed this and commented on the snug fit. I didn't find it tight, but maybe a bit too figure revealing as I look at the pictures. I didn't use any of the in case sas I'd added just part of the amount I added at the waist. I blended it into a size 46 in the hips, and I did a small fba and added a dart. I used 3/8" sas instead of the 5/8" they call for and 1" in the side seams for 'in case'. If you are using a knit with less stretch the sleeves will be tight. It's fine with my fabric but wouldn't fit well if you had any less stretch. You ask, how much stretch? I never know how to figure this, but its a 4 way stretch with lycra and good recovery. The underarm is quite high, which I like. The cap wasn't too high as is often the case in Burda knits and fit into the body really easily in the flat. I do recommend that you walk the side seams. I don't know if it was from my adjustments or if it is in the drafting, but the front was about a half inch longer at the side seams. Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I will definitely sew this again. I love it. It is really comfortable to wear and as I said before, not to low and exposed. I will make again in short sleeves and in long.
Conclusion: This top is fitted, but not too fitted. I feel great in it and that is always a good thing!
I have been sewing since I was a teenager, mostly self taught. I sew for myself, with some some occasional sewing for my daughter. I love garment sewing and will only sew home dec if desperate. I love to cook and read and try to avoid cleaning as much as possible.