Yes! Alex is Coming Home!

Our daughter Alex is coming home from Korea for a few weeks. She didn't find a job she wanted to take and so now she needs to come home to keep looking and also to do her paper work for a new visa. If she had found a job before the end of the last one, she could have just transferred the visa. We are thrilled that she didn't get a job and has to come home. She has also decided that she'll go fabric shopping for me before she comes home. This is a big deal for she who hates to fabric shop. She has ADD and it is kind of overwhelming for her. Someone on PR and written detailed instructions on how to get there, but she couldn't find it. It moved and it's not open on Sunday. But, a friend of hers sews and she's taking Alex on Wednesday.

I did not have to wipe my computer! Or rather Dell didn't. Friday was the day from hell, let me tell you! I was typing and the blue screen came up again with the same stop code that I've been getting. I call Dell. I wait 20 minutes for a human to take over my computer and do a scan, only to have them tell me my computer needs to be wiped and that it's a a software issue and to call another number. Of course, software is not covered under the warranty. I back up everything that I haven't backed up, call my son to ask him how to back up itunes which he does. I had lunch and then called the number. I wait another 20 minutes for a human being. The guy talks in a monotone with a lisp and an accent. Can I understand him? Not so well. I explain yet again what the problem is and he starts telling me how much and we are cut off. I call again and another 20 minutes later I get another human, but this time it's a woman who is absolutely fabulous. I explain to her what the problem is and what has been suggested. She asks me lots of questions, she does a scan. The blue screen happens again, so she asks me more questions. She takes my number in case we get cut off. Nothing, so she sets up this long scan and tells me that it will take quite a while and that she will call me back in an hour. She does, it's not done yet so we wait. I have her on speaker phone thank goodness! Nothing is wrong. To make a long story short, she is unwilling to accept the conclusion of someone else. She says she thinks its my usb hub that's bad and has me plug all my usb devices into my computer tower. So far so good and she'll call me back in a few days. She also gave me a direct number for her and that while I'll get her voicemail, she'll call me back because she doesn't want me to have to start all over again with someone else! Well all this took hours to say the least and her supervisor wants to talk to me. I tell him how she has saved me a weekend of aggravation because she can actually think. She was just wonderful, and I hope that her boss appreciates her. She was so pleasant and patient. A bad situation made a lot more palatable by a thoughtful woman.
Sewing going on! Well pattern manipulation and drafting. The jacket is going to be fabulous I think. I think that the sewing will be a lot easier than the pattern making!

Gorgeous Leather!

Wednesday was the perfect day to go into the city. It was a precursor of fall; sunny and crisp.
DH dropped me a couple of blocks from Leather, Suede and Skins which is on 35th. I chose them because they were the only one who responded to my question about samples and Karen said that she had bought her leather there. I had traced a full pattern and brought it with me. The saleswoman was happy to lay it all out for me to get the most efficient layout. Three skins, in varying sizes of gorgeous lamb leather are now mine. Black of course, but if you want color or printed leather, or exotic skins they have an amazing selection. They also have leather trims and cording. Want to make a round handle for your handbag? They have it in a large number of colors. Want the same lazer cut leather that Donna Karan used for tank tops? They have it. Very nice and helpful. I didn't buy any more fabric, but I bought invisible zippers at SIL I think, or maybe Daytona, but anyway they are a regular brand at half the price you pay at Joann's. What's the difference you ask? No packaging. I also visited Botani Buttons for the first time and bought great plastic oversized snaps in a great mottled black. I'll use it for the DKNY sweater coat. I stocked up on some other notions too.

My jacket pattern is coming along, albeit slowly. There are 15 pieces in this pattern and I am combining them to eliminate the separate upper, lower and waist panels. I have everything traced but the left front panels, and the facing. Wheh! I normally don't have issues with tracing Burda, but this is a plus sized starting at size 46 which is 2 sizes too big for me. On the top at least. It's fine on the bottom. I usually cut a 42 in the shoulders and upper body and blend to a 46 in the hip for the back. The front I cut a 42 all the way down and use my fba as the extra room I need. It works with maybe a little bit extra at the hip. But, it is a complicated pattern to see on the pattern sheet and I am grading it down on the sheet first and then tracing it. I walked away a lot of times! I really find that walking away for a bit helps me mentally to see it better when I come back to it. One size is easy, but 2 really made me have to think about it. Obviously I will make a muslin. I also shortened it about 3" so far. I have to make a lining pattern as there is no lining, but I always do that anyway, even if one is provided, after I do my pattern alterations. It's easier than starting from scratch.
I was planning on having a total sewing weekend, but I am going to have to reinstall all the software on my computer after Dell wipes it and re installs the operating system. Don't ask, but after 6 hours on the phone with them on 3 separate occasions and having my motherboard replaced(that was perfectly fine) they have not fixed my problems and have decided that this is what has to be done. Can I say that I am not looking forward to this?
Have a great holiday weekend.

Sewing plan

Here's a more concise sewing plan for my wardrobe.

I'm going into NYC to buy leather tomorrow. I was going to wait and go in with dd, but my husband is driving in tomorrow, so I'll save train fare. She and I will go in regardless, to go do some museums, but she hates to fabric shop.
Karen was good enough to recommend a place where I might even be able to use my bargaining skills for the leather and a fabric store that is going out of business on the same street with some good bargains. I may avoid that store depending on how much the leather costs!
I am also making a list of notions and zippers that I need. I need some good shoulder pads too for the jacket. I am going to make the shoulders a bit stronger than it was designed. I don't think that the pattern called for shoulder pads, so I'll have to check that. Back to tracing patterns!

Another Version of the Tom and Linda Platt dress

I finished Vogue 1091, the Tom and Linda Platt dress. I like it even better than the first version. For a woman who isn't all that into prints, that's two print garments in a row. Must be a record! I won't write a whole review here. If you want to read my updated review, click on the photo of it on the left under PR reviews. I did remove the fba and you can see that the fit is fine. I wore it to a party yesterday and it was cool and perfect. Of course this particular party was at a house on the bay and the breeze was wonderful. Gorgeous day.

I'll start tracing patterns and altering them today for the Pattern Review wardrobe contest. I have 8 patterns to work on . That's a lot considering how much I alter everything. But, I know that if I am focused and don't make too many changes, I can do it.

I am planning on going into NYC to shop for the leather for my skirt and combine it with seeing the Isobel Toledo show at FIT before it closes on the 26th. I'll be going in with my daughter! Yes, she is coming home for a few weeks! We are thrilled that she didn't take the latest job offer and has to come home. You can tell we are so sad that she has to come back to the States for her visa. She'll have no problem getting another job, but she is being picky. She went down to see the school and meet the administrator and teachers and one of the first things the man said was "You are so beautiful" . Alex was not amused. She has said that the treatment of women in Korea is akin to the 1950's here. Here's a link to her blog. She just got her yellow belt in Taikwondo. Very cool Alex! She also thinks that we are the best parents ever! Isn't that a day maker?
She isn't thrilled about fabric shopping with dear Mom, but she is willing to go to one place for leather and then a couple of Museums. We'll also go to MOMA . We love going to Museums together so that will be fun.
She did make one attempt to shop for fabric for me in Seoul, but couldn't find the place that someone on PR had given directions too. I don't think that she is going to be willing to try again.
I know, I have enough fabrics already!
Have a great day.

Finally, a Plan I Can Be Excited About

I've been doing a little sewing and a lot of drawing and planning work on my Wardrobe for the Pattern Review Contest. For anybody who is interested in participating, go to Pattern Review, message board and click on pinned topics and you'll find the discussion for the contest.

It has been hot and muggy here and I've been washing and wearing my Tom and Linda Platt dress. A lot. So, I figured that I should make another one. I had this great animal print rayon knit that I bought to make a top, but the scale is just too large. It does however, really work as a dress and it will be a great transition piece for fall with black tights and my black leather jacket and later with my gray sweater jacket.


Wardrobe planning:
I am going with the black boucle motorcycle jacket. I love the fabric and the pattern, with a little reworking, will be the perfect knock off for the Oscar de la Renta jacket that inspired me. This is really a true black, but the limits of photographing it make it look gray.




That's the Oscar de la Renta jacket out of a black plaid boucle that's a dead ringer for my fabric, which is Oscar de la Renta bought from Fine Fabrics last winter. The pattern is Burda 128 10/08. The collar caught my eye. The zipper on the Oscar jacket is backwards? it seems, but I don't thing that I 'll change that on the pattern, it's easier to leave it as is. It's meant as an outer wear jacket so it may have a bit too much ease for what I want, so a muslin is in order for this one.
The next change was to use a silk charmeuse print with all the colors in my wardrobe, which is what I didn't have in the first plan. I bought it at Metro Textiles on Pattern Review day last fall. I have fabrics in all the colors. It has the kind of acid, apple green that I love, and white, gray and black. It's a lot more vibrant in real life.


I'll make it up in Burda 119 10/08

This piece of rayon knit is the same green.



I am going to use it to make a long sleeved version of my newest twist front top from Burda 134 7/07


Next is a white blouse, inspired by this great Donna Karan wrap blouse, using this Burda wrap blouse. 137 12/06 in cotton lycra from Paron annex from PR day. The collar and the wrap need some changing, but not a lot.



This Burda 126 12/08 will be made up in a silver rayon knit.

The fifth top will be a white rayon long sleeve scoop neck t. A variation on my tnt, V8151

The bottoms will be 3 pairs of pants.
Black denim trousers Burda 118 4/09. Gray wool and silk wide leg trousers, possibly HP's Razer


Gray denim jeans M5894 I ordered the denim from Marcy Tilton.

Black leather skirt Burda 133 9/09. I need the leather for this one.

I didn't put up the black, white and gray fabrics because, well they're just as easy to imagine as photograph.
That's my new plan and I am actually excited about it. The leather skirt gives it an edgier feel and I'll wear this. It works with pieces in my existing wardrobe, and I can continue with a secondary plan that will also work with the bottoms.

I will make the sweater coat as originally planned; a burgandy HP Three graces t and a pair of houndstooth black and cream wool pants and a dressy pair of black wool pants to expand on the wardrobe. The pieces also work with my gray sweater jacket. A couple more knit tops with fabric I have will also work in a more limited plan.
I need to get all my patterns worked out over the next few days and be ready to cut out near the start date of September 1.

How To Change My Wardrobe Plan so that I am Excited!

There is no way that I will finish this wardrobe if I am not excited by it. So, back to the drawing board. Shannon and Alex both said that it had to start with something that really needs to be made, that screams at me 'Make Me!' Alex is right, I really want to make that motorcycle jacket, so I am going to make it my piece that has to be made and work around it. I love the fabric and I have a cool silk print for the lining. So, there's my starting point. It is mentally exhausting to get it planned, but if it isn't really set before I start I know from past experience, that it will only be ok, not great. Of course, I may change my mind about the thing that has to be made if I can't come up with a wardrobe that works well with it.
Kiltsnquilts asked me if I took photos of myself for my croquis, which I did. I dressed in tights and a tank top for my croquis and took photos of several poses. Then I traced over it and scanned it into my computer. I printed out a couple of the different poses in several sizes and I use it under tracing paper. I have the bust point, knees, and waist marked for reference points. Being trained as an artist has made me think with a pencil as an extension of my brain. It keeps my brain from spinning! I think that I may make separate drawings of tops and bottoms and the topper so that I can layer them and see how it all fits together. Kind of like paper dolls. I loved making paper dolls when I was a kid. Hmm. Maybe I'll just make a paper doll of myself and make all the clothes with tabs so that I have my very own paper doll and clothes.
I can paste a copy of me onto heavier stock. Getting a bit carried away here!

PR 2009 Wardrobe Contest

10 pieces. 5 tops, 4 bottoms and one topper. At least one piece must be a print and all the tops must go with all the bottoms and the topper must go over all of it.

Those are the requirements for this fall's Pattern Review wardrobe contest. It runs from September 1 to November 30. That's plenty of time to sew 10 pieces especially if I've got all the patterns worked out ahead of time. There is also a lined jacket contest that runs from September 1 to the 30th. I could make my planned motorcycle jacket as the topper and enter it in both contests, or go with my original plan of using a knit sweater coat as my topper. I need a light weight coat for fall more than I need a motorcycle jacket! I like the wardrobe plans in theory, but the proportions for tops with pants and tops with skirts can be very different. If you read the original article about sewing with a plan or SWAP that was in Australian Stitches the clothing all went together but they were pretty boring, run of the mill pieces. Shannon of the Hungry Zombie blog did several amazing SWAPs over the years when she participated in the Timmel swap and Laura lo has also done some great swaps too. The question is, can I make a really good wardrobe following the rules, or only an ok wardrobe and would I do better just making smaller groupings? I haven't participated in a contest on PR in awhile and I do want to, so the question is do I do the wardrobe, or just make my motorcycle jacket and enter the lined jacket contest? I have fabric, lining and notions for the jacket, and most of the fabrics for the wardrobe contest.
I still have to adjust my BWOF pattern for the motorcycle jacket and a few for the wardrobe contest.
Here's what I have so far for the wardrobe contest using a sweater coat as a topper:
The middle piece is the topper, a DKNY sweater coat that I will make in this sweater knit from Emmaonesock, with black wool for the bands. The left is a Patrones pencil skirt in black cotton heavy knit. Top is possibly Jalie in large scale animal print with black trim. Right one is that Burda twist neck top I just finished, with long sleeves and in gray wool rayon jersey.

Wool sweater knit from Emmaonesock.

Tops from the left: black wool tunic with nailhead trim at the neck. It's a knock off of a Tory Burch top. The second is in gray knit with padded, top stitched black silk shoulders also a knock off from a top I saw on shopbop.com. Right one is also a knock off of a Donna Karan white cotton wrap blouse. Yes, Karen I will finally use that white stretch poplin we bought in NYC.
This one is the loop front 3 Graces t from Hot Patterns in a dark red. The pants are black jeans, black wool with a fine metallic pinstripe, and gray wool and silk. I actually have one too many tops here. I just can't help thinking that it's boring, though I've tried to make the tops a bit different, at least the two with trims. I really like the white blouse too.
From upper left:. black stretch denim, black wool for trim on the sweater coat, white poplin, black wool knit from Michaels, gray wool rayon jersey, red rayon jersey,
Second row: wool sweater knit, black wool suiting with fine metallic stripe, gray wool and silk,
black cotton knit for pencil skirt.
I am not quite sure on which pants patterns I'll use. When I look at the photo of my fabrics it looks kind of boring! I do have a large scale black, gray and white animal print that I am thinking of using for one of the tops that might bump it up a notch. I am not very confident at putting prints together though. Well I still have some time to make a final decision. Feel free to comment and make suggestions.