Saturday, December 4, 2010


When I sat and actually fit the skills that I want to learn to garment, well I didn't really want to make most of the garments; at least not right now.  I will keep the list at hand though, and work my way through the techniques if and when  I feel like it.

Right now I am making a  pants muslin for Alex.  I have never actually sewn pants for someone other than myself and hopefully her young, slim  well proportioned body will make it an easier project than fitting pants for myself has been.  Unfortunately she's still too jet lagged to actually have the patience to stand still during a fitting.  Under the best of circumstances she's not good at this, so I'll sew up the muslin and go on to something else in the mean time.

The muslin, two of them in fact, for my jacket are wadders.  I figured out the fitting issue I was having but I decided that the jacket was just not going to be flattering on me.  I have two possibilities at the moment but I am not sure I have enough fabric for the first one.  I love this Burda coat, 120 9/10 but couldn't figure out how to make it work for me.  The hip band isn't really suitable for my figure.  Then I saw Claire Kennedy's post on how she remade this pattern, eliminating the hip band.  I love it. But the way she eliminated the side seam may make it take more fabric than I have. 

That's the first possibility and this is the second.  This is the short version,  but there's a version that's actually a wrap with a lapel and v neck opening which I prefer.  Finding said coat on the French Burda website is not so easy and I was a tad lazy, so this is the one I've posted. 

 I've got some medium weight wool coating in black to make it in.  What do you think readers?


  1. I like them both but I'm really intrigued by the pattern redesign of the Burda jacket. That could be because I really love how that jacket riffs on one of Stella McCarthy's fall looks so I don't know how helpful my opinion is!

  2. I really like the second and have it on my (eventual) list of things to sew. But the first jacket is much more interesting without the waist band too

  3. I think you are very smart to opt out of the SWAP because it's not exactly what you want to be doing with your valuable time and energy. I just love that first coat- must head over to Claire's blog immediately.

    But if you don't have enough fabric, not much you can do.
    I do like the 2nd coat and I can see it on you.

    Happy for you to have Alex at home :)

  4. I don't blame you for not wanting the pressure of a SWAP. I love the first coat, and I like it with Claire's changes even more. I wish you had enough fabric to go for the first coat. (It's over my head, but I love to see experienced sewers make this stuff!)

  5. Well, they do offer two completely different look & feels, don't they? The first is very modern - fashion forward - chic - incredibly sleek & slimming, IMO. That stand collar, whoa, only for someone with a long neck? Maybe not, if lowered. The second jacket - perfectly traditional look. And, with all the visually and functionally horizontal stuff - collar, wristbands, pocket flaps - much more square & boxy looking, even overall length aside, despite being probably pretty similar in terms of actual fit (the Burda is also pretty un-shaped, esp. in the back).

    I doubt jacket #2 would make me take a 2nd glance, but #1, for sure.

  6. I don't see why you couldn't put a side seam in the varied jacket à la Claire Kennedy - just continue the blue line in this post ( down til it intersects the diagonal dart. Sew the side seam first, then the dart. You keep the continuous diagonal but it would take less fabric (I think). Anyhow, that's what I would (and may still) do. I REALLY like this jacket without the horizontal band.

  7. I love both coats. I am on a coat kick.
    I think you need them both Nancy.
    Two different looks- long winter ahead.

  8. As much as I'd like to protest that paragraph...I am a squirmy, grumpy, jet lagged zombie who is sort of frightening without lots of coffee. :)

  9. I definitely think the first is more your style. I love what Claire did to this pattern and think it will just be all the better for it. I agree with Digs on the horizontal issues on the second.

    I could not handle the pressure of a swap either, at least for now. Things could change, however.

  10. I like the overall shape of the first coat. The second I like, but it is more boxy and baggy than I can wear.

    If you're using black, the seaming details of the first coat are going to be lost anyway ... so I think if it were me, I would just start with a basic coat pattern which will eliminate the hip band, and then morph the Burda front edge shaping, collar and sleeves. If you like the diagonal seaming, you can include that as french darts.

  11. I absolutely love the first one, as I think you know (without the horizontal line of course). Hope you have enough fabric to do that one, there is nothing wrong with the other pattern, but as has been said by others, it's not as special.

    You're right not to swap if you're sewing garments not because you want to make them, but just to meet the rules. It's a set of rules that is more suitable for those with less experience (of course, my opinion).

  12. I love both of them. Why do I want to sew winter coats too when its summer here!! I need cool dresses..

    It must be all you northern hemisphere bloggers!